In a new iteration of the iconic BR 03 diver, Bell & Ross has chosen to combine a bronze case with a brilliant green dial in the BR 03-92 Diver Black & Green Bronze.
Exploring the deep sea demands appropriate technical equipment. Fascinating as they are, underwater worlds are not our natural environment. This is why scientists, engineers and artists are always coming up with new ways to dive and discover the secrets of the abyss. From the start, bronze has been closely linked to such technical developments. A durable alloy made of copper and tin, bronze was discovered and used after the Stone Age and before the Iron Age, between the years 3000 and 1000 BCE.
In watchmaking, other than a handful of attempts at military watches in the 1930s and 1940s, the materials only really appeared at the end of the 1970s. Over the past fifteen years, it’s clear that bronze has been enjoying a veritable golden age in watchmaking. The reason behind its popularity is most likely one of aesthetics over technology. With a patina that develops over time as it oxidises, bronze gives watches extra soul, puts the wearer in touch with nature, and casts an allure that evokes the finest epics known to man.
Bell & Ross: Conquering the Abyss Since 1997
When it comes to nautical matters, Bell & Ross has showcased its depth of expertise since 1997, when the Hydromax, the Maison’s first diving watch, set a world record of being waterproof to 11,100 metres. This major technical innovation lies in the case being filled with a patented transparent fluorinated oil.
Ten years later, a second diver watch emerged with the BR 02 collection, waterproof to 1,000 metres and specifically designed for the underwater world. In technical terms, the BR 02 is equipped with a helium decompression valve and an ultra-resistant domed sapphire crystal: essential elements for saturation diving.
From 2017, with the arrival of the BR 03-92 Diver model among its family of instrument watches, Bell & Ross adopted a new aesthetic: not all divers are made round. Faithful to the Maison’s DNA, the functionality of fighter plane dashboard instruments was combined with the now signature “rounded square” case.
In 2018, Bell & Ross added a remarkable new variation, cutting the 42 x 42mm square case in bronze: a quality material from the marine world. Long renowned solely for its robustness, the material is now seeing its tint and patina celebrated by watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.
The Quintessence of Nautical Style
Sophisticated, evocative and elegant, the new BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK & GREEN BRONZE takes on a neo-retro look. The expressive watch face marks a shift straight away, with its new green dial that brings a naturalist dimension to the heart of this instrument for divers. Luminous and refined, the dial is highly readable. In conjunction with the bronze case, the reflections are harmonious with the material, whose natural colour tends at times towards red. The choice of black rubber strap or synthetic canvas with Velcro closure makes the watch completely versatile.
As for the case, its complex four-part screw assembly attracts the attention of watch enthusiasts. Additionally, the solid bronze unidirectional rotating bezel, graduated to 60 minutes, and equipped with a black anodised aluminium ring and the telescopic screw-down crown.
Bronze: An Evolving Personality
The alloy used for the BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK & GREEN BRONZE is CuSn8, composed of 92% copper and 8% tin. Visually, its tone is quite close to classic fittings on sailing boats, while showcasing qualities so prized today by contemporary designers and architects. Owning a bronze watch means accepting that its appearance will change. It’s a subtle way of imparting a unique style that matches your own personality.
Depending on the wearer’s wishes, the diver can be given the freedom to evolve with the sea breeze, taking on brown or green reflections, or it can even be polished to shine like gold. It’s no coincidence that the iconic diver’s helmet, traditionally made of bronze, is now engraved on the back of BR 03-92 Diver watches in hypoallergenic stainless steel. Invented nearly 2000 years before the common era, bronze is a classic material in the nautical environment, as a non-ferrous metal alloy consisting mainly of copper. Ever since the beginnings of underwater explorations, equipment for the first modern divers has included bronze elements.
An Instrument Watch Certified for Diving
Above all, like all the instrument watches in the Bell & Ross BR 03 family, the new BR 03-92 DIVER DIVER & GREEN BRONZE was conceived and designed as a professional tool for divers. To meet their expectations, it complies with international standard ISO-6425, which states that a “diving watch” is a watch “that must withstand immersion in water to a depth of at least 100 metres and have a time control system.”
The Swiss certifying body specifies that “the device must be protected against unintentional rotation or mishandling. If it has a rotating bezel, there must be a minute scale going up to 60 minutes. The markings for each 5-minute period must be specially highlighted.” Underwater, the indices must still be visible at a distance of 25cm in the dark.
In addition, the functionality must be checked underwater by submerging the watch to a depth of 30 cm (+/- 2cm) for 50 hours, between 18 and 25°C. After this time, the mechanisms should still be functioning correctly. The functionality is verified by the seconds hand. The watches are also tested to prove that they are not sensitive to thermal shocks, that they are resistant to excess water pressure, and that they do not form condensation under certain conditions. The winding crown must also pass a strength test.
The new BR 03-92 DIVER BLACK & GREEN BRONZE case is completely waterproof to 300 metres. In a limited edition of 999 pieces, the watch houses a mechanical self-winding BR-CAL.302 movement (based on Sellita SW300-1) with 25 jewels, beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz) and guaranteeing a 54-hour power reserve for perfect precision and great efficiency.
With its iconic case, this elegant diver combines the signature “rounded square, four-screw” design so dear to Bell & Ross with bronze, a fine material with a patina that makes each piece unique.
Discover more exciting creations from Bell & Ross at our boutiques, or online.
