Record-breaking firsts and commemorative novelties for various wrist sizes, Breitling and Bulgari steal the spotlight with their dynamic new releases.
At Watches and Wonders 2024, the most significant horological exhibition of the year showcasing the latest masterpieces and coveted creations from a burgeoning number of watchmakers, aficionados are spoilt for choice.
Thinness doesn’t come thinner than Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC.
Scott Carpenter’s original Navitimer Cosmonaute was the first Swiss-made wristwatch in space.
Breitling and Bulgari ensure the spotlight is firmly trained at their directions, with Breitling unveiling a sporty array of aviation-inspired timepieces to celebrate the brand’s 140th anniversary and numerous firsts in watchmaking history, as well as Bulgari cementing its technical prowess once again with the world’s thinnest COSC-certified mechanical watch, in addition to a wealth of novelties for him and her.
Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC: Bulgari Reclaims the World’s Slimmest Crown
Horologists and enthusiasts witness Bulgari’s record-breaking feat one more time, as the Maison with a penchant for turning the improbable into reality delights us with the 1.7mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC.
Bulgari’s 2022 Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (left); the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC (middle) is Bulgari’s ninth world record thanks to additional optimisation of the crystal; the Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum (right) marries precious metal with extraordinary svelteness.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is the culmination of Bulgari’s endeavours in advancing watchmaking.
The world’s thinnest mechanical watch is also the slimmest chronometer, with the wafer-thin hand-wound BVL 180 movement, comprising 170 miniscule components, certified by the COSC. Complementing the 40mm monochromatic sandblasted titanium case, fortified with a tungsten carbide mainplate, is a 1.5mm thick integrated bracelet.
Inviting a closer examination, the ratchet features a geometric design, while the caseback is imprinted with a mini data matrix to facilitate a digital experience of the watch through photo, video, and advanced data. Only 20 pieces are made and this limited edition represents the forefront of watchmaking know-how, ambition and daring. Apart from that, Bulgari also unveils a marginally thicker platinum version at 1.8mm.
Aerospace B70 Orbiter: Breitling’s Super-Sports Watch
A homage to the 25th anniversary of the maiden non-stop balloon flight around the world, an odyssey Breitling judiciously sponsored, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter is not only a capable watch thanks to a newly designed in-house movement, but it is also living memorabilia, constructed partly with fragments of the groundbreaking balloon, visible through the transparent caseback.
Countless attempts were made in the past before balloonist and daredevil Bertrand Piccard succeeded on the third attempt with Brian Jones, touching down in Egypt after floating for 45,633km in 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes, a record for both distance and duration.
Serving as the beating heart is the newly designed COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber B70. It is a thermo-compensated SuperQuartz™ analogue and digital display movement 10 times more precise than a regular quartz watch, enriched with a 1/100th of a second chronograph (with split-time and flyback functions), countdown timer, second timezone, two alarms, a lap function and perpetual calendar.
Tadao Ando Serpenti: Bulgari’s Ladies Watches for Every Season
The Serpenti collection, long been Bulgari‘s emblematic wristwatches for ladies, receives creative input from famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who has previously collaborated on Octo. Four new references, one for every season, feature nature-inspired artistry, magnificently bound together by colourful marquetry.
Each limited edition is named Summer (natsu), Autumn (aki), Winter (fuyu) and Spring (haru), and will be released according to the season this summer.
Spring evokes the flourish of cherry blossom, with the pink dial brought to life with mother-of-pearl chaperoned with a rose gold case and a two-tone rose gold and stainless steel bracelet. The lushness of Summer is recreated via a green aventurine dial, accentuated with a yellow gold case and a two-tone stainless steel and yellow gold bracelet.
The transitional foliage of Autumn is echoed by the combination of an amber-hued tiger’s eye stone dial and a matching rose gold case and bracelet, while Winter is dusted with a classic white mother-of-pearl dial paired with a stainless steel ensemble to recall the arrival of snow.
Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41: A Nod to Breitling’s Aviation Heritage
Celebrating the founding of a brand steeped in exploration on air, land and sea 140 years ago, Breitling continues to weave heritage with innovation, producing timepieces fit for the intrepid zeitgeist. For that, look no further than the Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41. An iconic design combining a chronograph and a computational slide rule, the Navitimer debuted in 1952 with an instant aplomb. Pilots and naval officers took to the watch, elevating it to a level that transcends watchmaking.
Celebrating the founding of a brand steeped in exploration on air, land and sea 140 years ago, Breitling continues to weave heritage with innovation, producing timepieces fit for the intrepid zeitgeist. For that, look no further than the Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41. An iconic design combining a chronograph and a computational slide rule, the Navitimer debuted in 1952 with an instant aplomb. Pilots and naval officers took to the watch, elevating it to a level that transcends watchmaking.
There is something for everyone, with black, blue, silver, ice blue, and green dials on offer, encased in 41mm stainless steel or 18K red gold, and a two-tone variant for the automatic variant. Breitling further champions sustainability, impregnating the full-gold versions with responsibly mined gold in line with the Swiss Better Gold Association’s environmental and social standards.
Other Notable Novelties by Breitling and Bulgari
Cosmonaute: A Legendary Breitling Reborn
In concert with the unveiling of the Navitimer collection, Breitling revisits its archives and brings forth the Cosmonaute, regarded as the first Swiss-made wristwatch in space.
Attired in 18K red gold, the ode to space exploration is limited to 250 pieces.
The seed of the historic moment was sown by Scott Carpenter when the Mercury Seven astronaut approached Breitling with an unusual request: to modify the Navitimer’s design for space exploration. Breitling accepted the challenge, imbuing the original watch with a 24-hour dial to distinguish day from night in orbit. The Cosmonaute was born and took to space on May 24, 1962.
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in haute horlogerie elegance
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in rose gold exhibits a flying tourbillon with extreme skeletonisation.
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in sandblasted titanium with black DLC showcases rose gold-plated hands and a rose gold crown with a black ceramic insert.
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in platinum marries a flying tourbillon with a blue open-worked dial.
The trio of tourbillon-enlivened Octo Finissimo references are distinctively different from one another, thanks to the choice of materials and movements. The Automatic is luxuriously bestowed with a platinum case measuring 42mm, while the two Manual alternatives are respectively clad in 40mm sandblasted titanium with black DLC and 40mm satin-polished rose gold for a thoroughly elegant feel. The pièce de résistance of the ultra-thin, open-worked movement is the flying tourbillon. It is the quintessence of Bulgari’s “Estetica della meccanica”, a philosophy that places equal importance on form and function, cutting-edge design and Swiss watchmaking expertise.
New Octo Roma References Instil an Enigmatic Vibe
The revitalised Octo Roma collection is amplified with two handsome models in black DLC.
On the other hand, the stainless steel Octo Roma in classic automatic three hands and chronograph are treated with black DLC for a timeless appeal. The sporty numbers feature Bulgari’s signature case, an exquisite Clous de Paris motif on the dial complemented with a matching rubber strap, and an additional alligator strap. At 41mm, the Automatic is marginally smaller than the 42mm Chronograph. The sophisticated duo adds further temptation to the current line-up that includes alternatives with blue, grey, white and black dials in stainless steel.
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