Bulgari is pleased to announce its Geneva Springtime 2024 collection
The Collection features exciting collaborations and limited edition timepieces from the Roman Maison’s celebrated Serpenti, Octo Finissimo and Octo Roma collections.
Tado Ando X Serpenti
The very first artistic collaboration on the Serpenti Tubogas collection celebrates the fleeting splendor of nature, a theme dear to Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Green aventurine, tiger’s eye, and either white or pink mother of pearl – the watch face of Bvlgari’s iconic reptile expresses the changing hues of a forest across the seasons.
Tado Ando X Bvlgari
While Tadao Ando and Bvlgari have collaborated in the past, this is the first time around Serpenti. In 2020 and 2021, the simple designs of the Octo Finissimo captured the essence of time through the pure lines of a spiral and the Mikazuki concept, symbolizing the waxing crescent moon. Here, the artistic and conceptual journey shared by the architect and the Roman Maison around the
theme of time enters a new realm, expressed in four limited editions within the hallmark Serpenti collection. “Tadao Ando possesses a rare creativity, inspired by nature and its transient character,” appreciates Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Executive Director of Product Creation.
Ando himself notes, “I aim to integrate the various forces at play, to restore the unity of architecture
with nature”. His designs blend the aesthetics of perception and principles of circularity in harmony with natural light, establishing a direct connection with the environment. As Buonamassa Stigliani explains, “Aligning with Serpenti felt instinctive. In a metaphor for time and transformation, indeed for the renewal of nature itself: the serpent likewise sheds its skin and emerges anew, its colors transformed”.
Tado Ando X Serpenti Tubogas
“The power of Serpenti lies in its ability to reinvent itself, without merely repeating itself or obscuring the richness of its heritage,” observes Valeria Tschan-Céré, a collector, in the book ‘Bvlgari Beyond Time.’ Deeply rooted in nature’s primal energy and rhythms, Serpenti acts as a talisman, inhabited by this primitive power. An absolute icon of Bvlgari style since the 1940s, Serpenti Tubogas is both jewel-reptile and reptile-jewel, capable of metamorphosis and rebirth, perfectly capturing the ephemeral yet enduring beauty of time.
Just as a snake goes through its transformation, Tadao Ando’s works change with the seasons and the light. The celebrated architect has molded his design language around the apparent simplicity of forms and the purity of materials, maintaining a direct harmony with nature. His concrete constructions blend seamlessly into their surroundings, as in the case of the Hyogo Prefectural Museum, located in a magnificent setting overlooking the mountains to the north and the Seto Inland Sea to the south.
The Japanese architect’s emblematic creations are built around natural
light, interacting with his refined lines. In spring, the openings let in invigorating sunlight into the interior spaces. Then the museum slips into its summer clothes, all in light and shade, thanks to the coolness of the interior corridors.
Consequently, Serpenti now more profoundly reflects the realms of fauna, flora, and aesthetics than before, mirroring the forest and adapting with the seasons’ cycles. The reptile coils around the wrist, adorned with fragments of gemstones or mother of pearl that echo Tadao Ando’s architectural vision with their harmonious, straight, and raw lines.
Serpenti Across the Seasons
To evoke the seasons, Tadao Ando envisioned colorful marquetry – of green aventurine, tiger’s eye, and pink or white mother of pearl. Bvlgari’s artisan-craftspeople skillfully translated this vision onto a watch dial.
They began by meticulously selecting the most visually striking fragments of each material. Each piece was then precisely traced and cut. Finally, the fragments were carefully fitted and assembled, creating a play of colors and reflections with organic expressiveness. Highlighting this artistic arrangement, two rows of diamonds set along the serpent’s head bring radiant life to this vibrant tableau. The first of the four limited editions, to be unveiled at the summer solstice, natsu (夏), captures the lush intensity of a sun-drenched forest, with the vivacity of slightly translucent green aventurine stone, enriched with dusky effects. This striking dial contrasts beautifully against a case and bracelet made of yellow gold and steel.
As autumn, aki (秋), approaches, the leaves seem to ignite. Here, the tiger’s eye lends the iconic reptile a warm, golden glow, set entirely in rose gold and accented with a pink rubellite on the crown. With the onset of winter, fuyu (冬), nature’s icy beauty is revealed, symbolized by marquetry of white mother of pearl. Its iridescence is beautifully complemented by a gleaming steel case and bracelet.
Spring, haru (春), heralds the rebirth of vital energies, a time celebrated in Japan with the fleeting bloom of sakura, the cherry blossom trees – a vision encapsulated in this limited Serpenti watch edition by delicate shades of pink mother of pearl marquetry.
These new additions to the Serpenti Tubogas collection will mark the seasons through to spring 2025. Each limited edition is encased in a box specially crafted and signed by Tadao Ando, a detail echoed on the back of each watch case. Moreover, a collection of twenty exclusive boxed sets will present these four creations as an ensemble.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
In its quest for constant innovation, the extreme finesse and the tourbillon are fertile and infinite playgrounds for Bvlgari. The year 2024 offers yet another triple illustration of this.
Over the span of twelve years, Bvlgari’s Octo collection has established itself as a towering milestone on the timeline of Haute Horlogerie, distinguished by its technical innovations, emblematic design, and instantly recognizable monochromatic aesthetic. Sleek and contemporary, it captures the essence of Bvlgari watches, blending Swiss watchmaking precision with Italian flair. This masculine interpretation, both understated and sophisticated, has forged the collection’s reputation among watchmaking experts and aficionados of minimalist design seeking unmatched technical sophistication.
To celebrate this icon of finesse and style, Bvlgari unveils several Octo Finissimo Tourbillon models in unprecedented configurations. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel in rose gold captivates not only with the slimness of its movement (1.95 mm) but also with the sense of lightness it exudes. Housed in a 40 mm case alternating satin and polished finishes, the skeleton tourbillon reveals its complex mechanism: the BVL 268SK manufacture caliber. This flying tourbillon movement, enhanced with a microblasted grey finish, provides a power reserve of 52 hours.
Equipped with the same BVL 268SK manufacture caliber with a satin black finish – the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement — and featuring the same finishes, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel in titanium features a 40 mm case with a DLC treatment. It stands out particularly for its rose gold hands and chapter ring, contrasting with the black of the case and rubber strap. A clash of materials and colors so dear to Bvlgari, reflecting a perfectly assumed audacity.
The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic is built around the automatic BVL 288 manufacture caliber (1.95 mm) in a microblasted blue finish. The 40 mm platinum case (4.95 mm thin) alternates between satin and polished surfaces, revealing all the wheels and gears – including the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock – that drive this ultra-complex mechanism.
Like all the creations that have preceded them in the collection, the new Octo Finissimo pieces don’t just set new standards; they redefine expectations, heralding a revolution in design and technical achievement. Hey are wrist-worn artworks. They epitomize dynamic, continuous, and limitless innovation. Bvlgari doesn’t just mark time; it propels it into new territories of imagination and excellence.”
Octo Roma Black Automatic & Chronograph
Bvlgari unveils two new additions to the Octo Roma collection: a three-hand model and a chronograph, both in 100% black DLC steel. With their sleek design and bold modernity, these watches introduce a multifaceted and unconventional vision to the existing Octo Roma lineup.
The philosophy on the use of black in Bvlgari’s watch designs is based on the idea that black is much more than merely the absence of color – it’s a way of expressing both light and depth. It possesses a unique ability to enhance shapes, materials, and textures, offering an intensity and contrast that enrich the inherent aesthetic of each piece – as French artist Pierre Soulages so brilliantly demonstrates in his use of black paint, which he terms Outrenoir – ‘ultrablack’ or ‘beyond black’.
From the sheen of a lacquered black dial that both absorbs and reflects light, to the carbon veins that evoke noble marbling, or the smoothness of ceramic that captivates with its deep gloss – black is an infinite source for telling stories while arousing the senses.
A hallmark of the Octo collection (with the first Ultranero piece launched in 2017), Bvlgari’s use of black is not just for its intrinsic elegance, but also for its ability to transform designs. This is exemplified through two new Octo Roma watches, a three-hand and a chronograph, both in 100% black DLC steel, fully black. Thus, every component is designed to capture light through its shape, surface texture, and finishes.
A Classic, Revisited
The Octo Roma, first released in 2012, quickly established itself as an unusual, standout piece. Its octagonal shape drew inspiration from Italian architecture, with its eight-sided geometry echoing the vaults of the Basilica of Maxentius, built in the 4th century on one of Rome’s most emblematic architectural sites.
At the same time, it is an ultra-modern piece, featuring unconventional geometry that captures the essence of the circle and the octagon. Its signature Clou de Paris dial pays homage to the great Swiss watchmaking classics, supported by an in-house movement designed and assembled in Le Sentier. Ultimately, it is a uniquely transalpine creation, marrying Swiss horology with Italian flair, that celebrates the union of beauty and precision, of art and craftsmanship.
Today, Bvlgari extends this dark finish to two new references within the Octo Roma collection: the Octo Roma Automatic Steel DLC, a three-hand model with a date function, and the Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC, featuring a chronograph function with date. These additions enrich the collection with a sporty and contemporary flair, seamlessly integrating into its standard lineup.
Different Watches, Same Spirit
Both pieces share the same Octo Roma DNA: a steel case with a design geometry that draws inspiration from the principles of ancient Roman architecture; two interchangeable straps, an in-house automatic movement with date that provides a 42-hour power reserve; and a screw-down crown with a ceramic insert for certified water resistance up to 100 meters.
Octo Roma Automatic Steel DLC: The Legacy Continues
Each of these two new watches has its own personality.
The automatic three-hand and date version offers a fresh take while remaining true to the original spirit of the Octo Roma. The piece maintains its 41 mm diameter and features a sober, unencumbered dial that gives the Clous de Paris pattern, so characteristic of the Octo Roma, the space to unfold its mesmerizing effect.
This subtle relief design, a time-honored hallmark of Swiss Haute Horlogerie, receives a surprisingly modern interpretation here, with the black DLC finish lending it a dual nature: from a distance, its black appearance is perfectly uniform; up close, however, each pyramid-shaped Clou de Paris captures light from its own unique angle, giving it a distinctive reflection. The dial comes alive, a private visual delight for its beholder.
It is at night that this dark finish shines brightest: indices and hands are filled with luminescent material, as are the collection’s two iconic hour markers – the “12” and the “6” that adorn each three-hand dial of an Octo Roma. The in-house BVL 191 movement, whose oscillating mass finished with Côtes de Genève graining can be admired through the sapphire case back, provides the Octo Roma Automatic with a 42-hour power reserve. The piece, available from July 2024, will come with two straps: textured rubber echoing the Clou de Paris pattern on the dial; and black alligator.
Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC : Sport-Chic Sophistication
The Octo Roma Chronograph Steel DLC presents a different vibe. Sportier, it comes in a slightly larger case measuring 42 mm. This size gives the bicompax chronograph layout more space to stand out. The Start/Stop and Reset pushers have been carefully integrated into the case, directly extending from the lugs, to maintain the Octo Roma line’s contemporary design. Shape, function, and ergonomics merge into a cohesive and harmonious whole, arranged according to the tenets of Roman architecture.
The Octo Roma Chronograph faithfully reproduces the complication’s original design, with a small seconds at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock – and a large central seconds-hand. A discreet date window is positioned at 4:30. Powering this watch is Bvlgari’s in-house automatic Caliber BVL 399, which beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve. For enhanced readability, the three counters sport a sunburst finish, while the hour-markers and hands are luminescent.
For the first time, the Octo Roma Chronograph is unveiled in a completely monochrome, sporty, sleek, and refined style. It is paired with a rubber strap with a Clous de Paris texture, mirroring the dial. Additionally, a black alligator strap, also provided, elevates the sport-chic aesthetic if and when a touch of elegance is de rigueur. The two straps are easily interchangeable thanks to the quick-release system.
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