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4 Key Trends and Our Favourites from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023

Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon At Cortina Watch  Feature Image

Still reeling from the numerous novelties from this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva? Thinking about what to acquire for your own collection, or what could make an ideal gift for that special someone? Read on as we introduce you some of the latest creations that fall under some of the key trends this year.

Sporty Watches

Always an essential part of every watch collector and enthusiast’s treasure trove, sporty timepieces should be versatile and well-designed. These new releases not only look great – they also embody the finer side of watchmaking.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon

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Building upon the success of the Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon launched last year, Parmigiani Fleurier presents its younger sister that features a Milano blue dial that will probably be even more desirable and versatile for daily wear.

The platinum case remains at 42mm, and details like the semi-detached lugs, integrated bracelet and knurled bezel are kept intact to add a touch of dressiness to this luxurious sporty watch. The finely grained matte dial of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is a stunning Milano blue that falls perfectly into the blue-dial, integrated bracket watch category.

The applied PF logo and asymmetrical flying tourbillon display at 7 o’clock interrupt the texture, while the delta-shaped skeletonized hands give ample space to view the dial. The tourbillon features a sharp blue hand and a bright golden balance wheel that reveals some of the watch’s true status. The calibre PF517 movement is adorned with a beautiful concentric Côtes de Genève pattern, and its solid 950 platinum micro-rotor has been finished with a barleycorn guilloché motif. It offers 48 hours of power reserve at 3Hz.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

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The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon is TAG Heuer’s latest addition to its emblematic Carrera family. This stunning timepiece boasts a redesigned “Glassbox” sapphire crystal that covers the entire diameter of the watch, providing an uninterrupted view of the dial. The absence of a bezel showcases the large tourbillon visible at 6 o’clock.

The blue circular brushed dial has been designed to enhance both the look and readability of the watch. The deep azuré subdials, surrounded by high-contrast silver rings, greatly enhance the legibility of the chronograph displays. The curved sapphire crystal and fluid form of the watch allows the tourbillon’s beauty to be observed from a wider range of angles. T

he 42 mm stainless steel case houses the TH20-09 manufacture calibre, a proprietary movement that offers bidirectional winding for improved efficiency and accuracy. Certified as a chonometer by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), it beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a 65-hour power reserve.

The transparent sapphire crystal case back reveals the high level of finishing of the movement and its openworked rotor. With this latest addition to the Carrera Chronograph collection, TAG Heuer has once again demonstrated their commitment to innovation, exclusivity, and elegance. This “Glassbox” Tourbillon 42 mm is a stunning timepiece that will undoubtedly be coveted by collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

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This year, Zenith launched a completely redesigned Pilot collection. The Pilot Big Date Flyback, being the complicated model among the new iterations, has been designed to cater to the needs of aviators who wear large leather gloves. It features an oversized date window located at 6 o’clock on the dial, equipped with a new patented mechanism that animates and stabilizes both discs in less than 0.03 seconds.

Additionally, the watch is designed with a flyback function that allows the chronograph to be reset and restarted with the push of a button, enabling pilots to record consecutive times without stopping and restarting the chronograph. The chronograph function can also be operated and stopped through the button on the case at 2 o’clock, similar to traditional models.

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Encased within a 42.5mm diameter case made of matte black ceramic or steel, the dial displays the continuous seconds counter at 9 o’clock and 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. The ceramic case version features a black dial with contrasting oversized white numerals and white hands, while the steel case version pairs the black dial with a red chronograph seconds and minute hand, and a counter rim at 3 o’clock accentuated by three different colours.

The watch is equipped with an El Primero 3652 high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, and is presented with two interchangeable straps.

Travel Watches

With the reopening of borders, many cannot wait to explore new territory again. These practical and stylish travel watch will become an indispensable companion on your journeys and adventures across the globe.

Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT BLUE


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Bell & Ross’s latest BR 03-93 GMT Blue is an iteration of the 2021 model but with a bright blue dial, making it even more attractive to jetsetters who are looking for something out of the ordinary.

The iconic circle-in-a-square design of Bell & Ross is easily recognizable from a distance, and the BR 03-93 GMT Blue is no exception. The watch features a solid 42mm-wide case with contrasting polished and satin-finished surfaces, adding interesting textures to its contemporary aesthetic.


Bell   Ross Gmt Blue Br03 93 At Cortina Watch Frontal Shot

The watch has four hands – hour, minute, seconds, and GMT – each crafted in different shapes and styles, making them easy to read at a glance. The brushed applied Arabic numerals and Super-LumiNova coated hour indices contrast nicely against the bright blue dial surface, while the date indication aperture is discreet yet perfectly legible. The bi-directional rotating bezel with an anodized aluminum insert enables the display of a third time zone.

The new reference has a two-tone blue and grey with a 24-hour scale, making the watch an ideal travel companion. The caseback is solid and protects the watch’s inner workings, with the timepiece being water-resistant up to 100m. The automatic movement inside is the BR-CAL.303, based on the Sellita SW-330, with a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The GMT setting is performed via the crown, with one-hour increments in both directions.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition 290

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Montblanc introduced its first Zero Oxygen watches in 2022, which proved popular among watch enthusiasts and mountain climbers. The timepieces in this collection eliminate fogging of the crystal caused by drastic temperature changes at altitude and prevent oxidisation through the use of a vacuum-sealed case, which in turn enhances the durability of watch components.

This year, the brand takes it to the next level with a limited edition 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 series, which features a Sfumato dial in dark grey patterned shades reminiscent of the rock and ice found on frozen landforms at the extreme altitude of 8,000 meters. Orange accents reference the clothing worn by alpinists and, at the same time, are inspired by the positive spiritual power of Tibetan amulets that mountaineers often wear.

The 44mm titanium timepiece is powered by the automatic Caliber MB 29.27 chronograph movement and includes a world time complication. It features two 3D turning globes representing the northern and southern hemispheres, a 24-hour scale, day-night indication, and a date display.

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The case has a fluted bi-directional stainless steel and black ceramic bezel and includes 3D laser engraving on the caseback with the list and profiles of the 14 notable peaks. It also comes with an interchangeable anthracite textile strap.

Record-breaking mountaineer Nimsdai Purja will also wear this stylish yet highly rugged watch on his next climbing adventure – Purja was the fastest to climb all 14 peaks in 2019 in just over six months.

Tudor Black Bay GMT

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The Tudor Black Bay GMT model was first introduced in 2018, inspired by vintage Tudor watches from the 1950s and 60s. The watch has a classic and elegant look with a bold red and blue “Pepsi” bezel, and after 5 years, the model has undergone a facelift but stays true to its original intention of being a highly functional and practically designed timepiece. The revamped model features an all-new silvery-opaline dial, also known as the polar white.

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Retaining the valuable features from the earlier editions of Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has a 41mm stainless steel case, and is water-resistant up to 200m, allowing one to engage in aquatic adventures. The GMT complication is an essential feature that allows the watch to keep track of multiple time zones. It is orchestrated by the in-house automatic COSC-certified Calibre MT5652, which has a silicon balance spring that ensures accurate timekeeping.

The watch has a power reserve of 70 hours when fully wound, making it an excellent watch for everyday wear. It comes with a three-link steel bracelet or a two-tone jacquard strap. Both options provide the wearer with a comfortable and stylish fit.

Vintage Inspirations

The key to creating beautiful vintage-inspired timepieces, is to find the ideal balance between the historical and modern elements. A lot of meticulous thought has gone into these new creations, and you are sure to find one that makes your heart beat faster.

Tudor Black Bay Burgundy 41 Master Chronometer

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The Tudor Black Bay was instrumental to the revival of Tudor when it was launched in 2012 and has remained one of the key pillars and most emblematic contemporary creations of the brand. This year, the Black Bay has been updated with subtle yet significant details.

One of the main improvements is the thickness of the watch. The original Black Bay had a case measuring 14.8mm, which was rather bulky, especially with a 41mm diameter. The 2023 edition of the Black Bay Burgundy retains the same 200m water resistance, 41mm diameter and the same overall design as the first generation case, but the profile has been deeply updated to reduce the overall thickness of the watch to 13.6mm; the new casebands are thinner as well.

This improved version sits much more comfortably on the wrist and looks sleeker as its redesigned crown also sits flusher with the case.

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Another important update that makes the watch one of the highlights of Tudor’s new releases is within the watch itself. With the recent establishment of Tudor’s new movement manufacture in Le Locle (joint venture with Kenissi), which is equipped for stringent METAS testing procedures, the Cal. MT5602-U, which powers the new Black Bay Burgundy 41 Master Chronometer, is now METAS-certified.

This means that it has achieved the Master Chronometer standard for accuracy with a rating of 0/+5 seconds per day after passing the COSC chronometer certification, and offers 15,000 gausses magnetic resistance, a silicon balance spring, variable inertia balance, 70-hour power reserve, and 28,800 bph beat rate – elevating the durability and functionality of the Black Bay to impressive new standards.

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

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This vintage-inspired timepiece boasts a throwback design but with a contemporary haute horlogerie finish that is characteristic of Chopard’s L.U.C. lineup. The 42mm flyback chronograph is crafted from Lucent Steel™, an innovative material made from 80% recycled materials, which is not only hypoallergenic and also more luminous than standard stainless steel.

The traditional case design pays homage to the chronographs from the 1960s – understated with mushroom-shaped pushers, an oversized crown, and an eye-catching English-green dial complete with a sunburst pattern and contrasting concentric chronograph counters.

The absence of a date aperture keeps the dial uncluttered, and the dual Arabic numerals graduated from 05-60 are a nod to British racing heritage. It is orchestrated by Chopard’s COSC-certified in-house flyback chronograph movement, the Cal. L.U.C. 03.07-L. This movement features a column-wheel vertical coupling clutch and flyback function and has been meticulously finished with circular graining, straight-graining and the Côtes de Genève pattern. It offers a 60-hour power reserve and has also received the Geneva Seal hallmark.

Cartier Santos-Dumont

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Widely considered the first and original pilot’s watch, Cartier’s Santos is still setting hearts aflutter for over a hundred years. This year, the Cartier Santos-Dumont collection welcomes three limited edition models in XL size, all of which have been given an ultra-luxe touch through the application of exquisite craftsmanship.

These iterations of the Santos-Dumont are presented in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold, and feature the emblematic Roman numerals cut directly in jasper, jade and dumortierite, respectively – each one is also paired with a crown set with a matching cabochon. At the centre is a small square decorated with a radiating guilloché pattern that accentuates the beauty of all the exquisite details on the dial.

Admired up close and under the light, the textures and natural colouring of the decorative stones that make up the numerals come alive and present this historical model in a new yet timeless light. Limited to 200 pieces each for each variation, these timepieces are equipped with the manual-winding Cal. 430 MC.

Jewellery Watches

Always a welcome addition to any watch collection, jewellery watches add instant polish to any look. These eye-catching jewellery watches will make great conversation starters as they have been crafted unlike the others.

Cartier Baignoire Allongée 

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Among the several Baignoire watches Cartier presented at Watches & Wonders 2023, this jewelled Baignoire Allongée particularly stood out. Inspired by the vibrant energy of London in the Swinging Sixties, the Baignoire Allongée embodied the beauty of excessiveness in the chicest way possible. Cartier further exercises its creativity on this particular model by taking decorative arts and gemsetting techniques to the next level. The dial is embellished with marquetry made of minuscule pieces of mother-of-pearl, turquoise and onyx, reflecting light almost like a disco ball when the wrist moves.

The curved surface of the dial makes it extremely challenging to set upon, and the master artisans at Cartier have ensured that the decorative adhere smoothly to the curve of the dial. On the bezel, brilliant-cut blue tourmalines, grey and black spinels and diamonds are set upside-down in an inverted pavilion setting, giving a punk edge to the overall aesthetic of this audacious timepiece. Available in a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Chopard Happy Sport 25mm

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No other jewellery watch utilises diamonds the way Chopard Happy Sport does. Wearing a Happy Sport and seeing those diamonds dance freely across the dial always bring a smile to one’s face. This year, the Happy Sport has been reintroduced in a new version with a 25 mm case that celebrates the spirit of jewellery watches and features five dancing diamonds.

There are four colour options on steel cases (blue, green, pink and white), as well as bi-coloured steel with ethical rose old variants paired with silver sunburst dials. This adds a touch of playfulness to the watch and embodies the Joie de Vivre spirit that Chopard envisions.

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The four steel variants and the standard two-tone model have a unique double-tour wrap-around leather strap, giving them a more playful look that is perfect for stacking with other arm candies. Chopard has intentionally kept the size and proportions of the Happy Sport dainty, and the dial design has been kept minimalistic to keep the aesthetic simple and timeless.

The two diamond-set models feature a traditional blue alligator strap with a pin buckle, making them more of an elegant dress watch. Each of the five dancing diamonds weighs 0.09 carats, with the diamond bezel versions totalling 0.69 carats (including the dancing diamonds).

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon 44mm

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Lab-grown diamonds are revolutionizing the jewelry industry by democratizing costs, offering design flexibility, and reducing wastage. TAG Heuer led the integration of lab-grown diamonds into commercial products, and this could possibly be seen as a move towards advocating sustainability into luxury industry and keeping up with the younger, tech-savvy consumers. First launched last year, the Carrera Plasma has been given an update with more bling and bolder design elements.

Its case is made entirely of anodized aluminum, sandblasted with a black DLC coating as a canvas for the 48 lab-grown diamonds to be set into. A further 26 diamonds are set in the bezel and 34 on the matching bracelet, finished with a steel folding clasp. The overall look is extremely bold and futuristic with flowing shards radiating from the dial, and features a standout 2.5-carat diamond crown created by TAG Heuer‘s partner Capsoul.

Despite its appearance, the Carrera Plasma has a water resistance of 100m, ensuring durability and practicality. Robust and dazzling at the same time, it could all seem a little ironic, and even too good to be true. But seeing is believing, and TAG Heuer has certainly embodied its avant-garde roots and beyond, with this extraordinary creation.

Come discover the best of contemporary horology at our boutiques. Check out the watch collections at Cortina Watch today.

Related reads:

8 Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2023 That Should Be On Every Collector’s List