Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024 may have drawn its curtains for 2024, but the excitement is still palpable.
We’re still reeling from the showcase of mastery and innovation presented by the 54 esteemed maisons, including Montblanc, Norqain, Parmigiani Fleurier, TAG Heuer, Tudor, and Zenith, which have left indelible impressions with their latest releases.
From the depths of the ocean to the realm of cutting-edge personalisation and the epitome of minimalist beauty, each brand unfurled its vision of what a timepiece can and should be. In our second round-up, we delve into the intricacies of these six remarkable creations that have set the stage for the future of horology.
Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date – Bronze-tone Edition
First launched in 2022, the Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection is distinguished by unique dials that are inspired by the glacial ice from the Mer de Glace on the Mont-Blanc massif. This year, the collection welcomes two new iterations, including this dark and handsome stunner.
Evoking the mesmerising hues of twilight over a frozen landscape, the black glacier-patterned dial is crafted with the gratté-boisé technique that imparts exceptional luminosity and depth to the motif. The luxurious bronze-toned case is made of cupro aluminium, a special alloy that is 1.5 times more resistant than standard bronze, and highly resistant to corrosion and rust. A meld of aluminium and copper, this special alloy not only promises longevity, but also ages gracefully as it develops an attractive patina over time.
Adding to the watch’s rugged elegant aesthetic is the bi-colour, unidirectional anodised aluminium bezel, which features a contrasting first 15-minute segment for precise timing. At 6 o’clock, you’ll find a Montblanc Iced Sea logo that echoes a vintage Minerva export seal. Boasting matte and shiny finishes, a striking laser-engraved 3D bronze-toned scuba diver artfully adorns the titanium caseback.
Driven by the reliable MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours, the 41mm timepiece displays hours, minutes, seconds, and the date at three o’clock. To guarantee optimal performance, each watch is rigorously tested for resilience in the Montblanc Laboratory, ensuring shock, magnetic, temperature, and water resistance up to 300m, and that its fasteners are reinforced for enhanced security.
Super-LumiNova on the hands, indexes, and bezel markings emit a glacial blue luminescence in low light conditions to ensure maximum visibility. And while the timepiece is presented on an adjustable bronze-coated steel double-folding clasp, it also comes with an interchangeable black rubber strap with a brown accent, as well as a watch pouch for the adventurer on the move.
Norqain Wild ONE of 1
Independent Swiss watch brand Norqain launches the ground-breaking Wild ONE of 1 service, which offers a fully customisable version of its best-selling robust and lightweight sports model, the Wild ONE. Offering an unprecedented 3.5 million unique combinations, this world-first initiative hands the reins of creativity over to the client, making each watch a true representation of individual expression. To further elevate the experience, Norqain promises the delivery of each personalised 42mm watch within three months of order placement.
Norqain’s 11-step personalisation journey utilises the Wild ONE of 1 3D configurator tool that the client can access via the brand’s website or at select luxury retailers worldwide. The adventure begins with the selection of an opulent 18k red or white gold top plate, setting the stage for further customisation. Patrons can then select from a range of chronometer-certified movements, including Norqain’s exclusive Kenissi Manufacture automatic movement or two skeletonised Sellita automatic movements, finished in either ruthenium or black ruthenium. Protecting the movement within its titanium housing, the Wild ONE’s hallmark rubber shock absorber comes in a range of 12 colours, further adding a unique touch to the watch’s internal mechanics.
The bespoke process continues with a variety of dial options and hands, complemented by back plates crafted from durable, coloured Norteq material. The personalisation journey includes selecting from a range of animal cruelty-free rubber straps in various hues, and buckles that can be matched to the Norqain plate.
For a truly singular creation, customers can print an outline image of a family portrait, logo or text on the watch’s sapphire caseback. This unique tailor-made service is the result of a two-year collaboration with some of Switzerland’s finest suppliers, presenting enthusiasts with the ultimate in personalised luxury watchmaking.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date
In 2021, the Swiss manufacture embarked on a quest for absolute aesthetic perfection with the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor by stripping away all superfluous elements and focusing solely on the essentials. With tight, integrated lines and superlative finishes, this collection encapsulated Parmigiani Fleurier’s identity of understated elegance and refined discretion.
Continuing this clean, minimalist aesthetic is the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date, the collection’s newest addition. It’s a creation that resonates with those who appreciate the essence of horology, where functionality and chromatic coherence converge in exceptional craftsmanship. A modern reinterpretation of watchmaking classicism, forgoing the date window underscores the maison’s commitment to essential clarity, while honouring the demands of watchmaking purists.
Flaunting a Golden Siena dial with elegant moiré effects, the 40mm steel timepiece with a platinum bezel celebrates the subtle nuances of nature and earth’s rich colour palette. Adding a touch of classic haute horlogerie is a Parmigiani Fleurier signature, the intricate Grain d’Orge guilloché dial, which features a beautiful micro texture that beckons admirers to take a closer look.
The calibre PF703, boasting an automatic winding via a micro-rotor, is a marvel of engineering at only 3.07mm thin. Employed by the most prestigious of watchmakers, this complex component is executed in platinum that affords it both heft and fluid motion, while being seamlessly incorporated within the movement’s slender profile. The thoughtful yet sophisticated design reduces the overall thickness of the timepiece, allowing it to sit just 7.8mm high upon the wrist for unparalleled comfort and a sleek aesthetic.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date
Following the success of 2023’s launch of four 36mm Carrera Date models, the latest trio of Carrera Date references exude an understated femininity as they’re rendered in precious materials of mother-of-pearl, diamonds, and radiant 18k 5N rose gold, which is pictured here. Enthusiasts who are familiar with the legacy of the TAG Heuer Carrera will know that the 36mm diameter pays homage to the dimensions of the very first Heuer Carrera introduced in 1963. Even after more than 60 years, it’s clear that the fundamentals of the TAG Heuer Carrera design have stood the test of time, cementing its status as a timeless icon in watchmaking.
The timepiece with a versatile size has since transcended its racing roots to become a symbol of elegance, seamlessly transitioning from high-speed events to sophisticated evenings with equal finesse. With meticulous attention to ergonomics, this size fits all wrists comfortably and is the perfect unisex model.
This year’s new Carrera timepieces present three distinct and feminine expressions, like this radiant version here. It flaunts an enchanting copper dial, its snailed and brushed surface rendered in tasteful nude shades, epitomising everyday sophistication. The watch’s steel case is adorned with alternating finishes of lustrous red gold, highlighting the manufacture’s meticulous craftsmanship. A rose gold bezel and crown enrich the watch’s aesthetic, harmoniously paired with rose gold-plated indexes, hands, and the brand’s signature logo that lend the watch an air of refined elegance.
All three new timepieces are accompanied by an enhanced, tapered Carrera H bracelet, with this model featuring an elegant two-tone composition of steel and rose gold. At the heart of the timepiece is the sophisticated Calibre 7 automatic movement, boasting a robust 56-hour power reserve. The watch’s svelte 10.2mm case demonstrates TAG Heuer‘s commitment to innovative craftsmanship and ergonomic design, resulting in a watch with an elegant yet balanced profile.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
The Black Bay 58 is named after the year the first Tudor divers’ watches that were waterproof to 200m, the iconic reference 7924 or Big Crown, were released. The new Black Bay 58 GMT retains the classic 39mm case dimension that was characteristic of watches in the ’50s. This diameter not only respects the heritage but is also ideal for the GMT function while offering a touch of mid-century elegance. True enthusiasts will appreciate the nostalgic nod to early Tudor divers’ watches with the lollipop-style seconds hand and the embossed Tudor rose on the crown. Of course, the new timepiece features modern touches as well, including gilded details on the hands, hour markers, and bicolour black and burgundy bezel.
Tudor is seeking the prestigious Master Chronometer certification from the Swiss authority METAS for its new watch and its GMT manufacture calibre MT5450-U. This certification would endorse the exceptional quality that defines Tudor’s craftsmanship and its commitment to excellence. This also marks a step toward the brand’s goal of elevating its entire collection to Master Chronometer status, which demands significant enhancements of standard Tudor manufacture movements.
A marvel in design and functionality, the COSC-certified Black Bay 58 GMT movement with silicon hairspring features a robust build for accuracy, resilience, and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. With a weekend-proof 65-hour power reserve, wearers can easily pick up where they left off without missing a beat.
Aesthetically, the Black Bay 58 GMT flaunts a slimmer profile, a 24-hour bidirectional bezel with legible numerals, and a black dial with a soft radial finish. The redesigned crown sits flush against the middle case band for a sleek look, complemented by a vintage-inspired rivet-style bracelet for comfort, and a precise Tudor T-fit clasp for quick adjustments. There is also an option of a black rubber strap with the signature snowflake motif that offers an alternative fit and style option.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
Inspired by Defy’s long line of dive watches since 1969, the all-new Defy Extreme Diver is refreshed with a contemporary edge for today’s adventurers. Forged in titanium, its 42.5mm case combines lightweight durability with exceptional resistance to the corrosive effects of seawater. Designed for saturation diving, it incorporates a helium escape valve and is framed by a fixed dodecagonal bezel, above which sits a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel with luminescent markings for clarity even in the dark depths of the ocean.
Echoing the robustness of its predecessor, the Defy A3648 from 1969, the Defy Extreme Diver boasts a water resistance of 600 metres, or 1,969 feet – a hat tip to the original’s debut year. Complying with ISO standards for professional dive watches, this timepiece stands up to magnetic fields and shocks to ensure optimal performance in the harshest of environments.
The watch is offered in black or blue sunburst metallic dials with matching ceramic bezels and they retain the modern Defy collection’s signature geometric motif of an engraved four-pointed star. As functionality and visibility are key, the oversized hands and markers are layered with three pigments of X1 grade Super-LumiNova with light emissions in blue, green, and orange, which make it easy for the diver to distinguish between the hours, minutes, and seconds. Another safety feature are the titanium crown-guards that protect either side of the oversized screw-down crown.
At the heart of the Defy Extreme Diver is the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre with 60 hours power reserve. Visible through a sapphire display back – an uncommon feature in diver’s watches – this movement features a paramagnetic escapement with key components in non-metallic silicon.
Completing the watch is an interchangeable titanium three-link bracelet, as well as two additional straps. The first is in FKM rubber with a Cordura-effect texture that matches the dial colour and features side vents to allow water to pass through. For more professional uses, the second is an extra-long fabric option made from recycled fish nets. Designed to be worn over a wetsuit, it has specific end-pieces to pass the single-piece strap through and under the case for a secure fit.
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