Along with the Ref. 5236P, Patek Philippe introduced a new classic Calatrava reference, the Ref. 6119 with a new movement.
On the eve of its 90th anniversary, Patek Philippe’s defining model has gotten an update with a new manual-wind caliber. The Calatrava is perhaps the purest version of a Patek Philippe watch. Not only is it the longest-existing line, it is also its most elegant, with a look that’s remained untouched since its birth.
The new Ref. 6119 is the successor to the Ref. 5119, and features a slightly larger case size at 39mm to keep with contemporary times. It both satisfies the current trend of sub-40mm watch cases, while offering a slightly larger display that works across all wrist sizes and genders. This model is both old and new, classic and modern at the same time.
The original Calatrava was designed at the height of the Bauhaus era, and its utilitarian design beloved by purist collectors. A round case with a slim bezel, that flows into its gently curved lugs, giving maximum space for the dial that features a fine minute track and seconds counter at 6 o’clock. Applied polished and faceted indexes for the hour markers that recall the Ref. 96, combined with gold beads on a grained dial gives the watch a stately presence.
A New Caliber
To accommodate the new size of the watch case, Patek Philippe created a new manually wound movement to fit it. The larger 31mm caliber 30-255 PS has the same height as the 215 PS at 2.55mm, but its larger diameter gives it more space to play with. Patek Philippe’s engineers therefore added a second mainspring barrel in parallel, giving it a power reserve of 65 hours. The design means the movement has a lot more torque, and perhaps we will see it in use with other complications in the future.
To maintain its slimness, several new innovations have been implemented in the watch. The central pinion meshes with the center wheel via an intermediate wheel and without a pinwheel plate. The crown is also repositioned under the barrel bridge to save space in the movement. The movement also has a stop seconds feature, and is designed in traditional style with individual bridges for each wheel.
A Modern Classic
If the Ref. 6119R-001 in rose gold with the hobnail guilloché bezel is a true classic Calatrava, the white gold Ref. 6119G-001 represents its future. In a first for Patek Philippe, it’s presenting a Calatrava in a dark charcoal grey dial with a satin-finish.
The subtle tonal difference from the Manufacture’s black lacquer displays makes it much more contemporary, truly a 21st-century rendition of an otherwise traditional Patek Philippe watch. One can already imagine collectors asking for a version with similarly toned hands and indexes for an even more monochromatic appeal. But we suspect this is as close as Patek Philippe will ever get to an all-black edition. The grey dial with satin-finish gives it a unique luminescence as the light spreads over the display. If the Ref. 96 defined the brand’s designs in the 20th century, this model surely will be a defining reference for the 21st.
The Ref. 6119 is available on request at Cortina Watch. Contact a sales representative for more information.
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