The green dial trend gains greater traction at Patek Philippe with several new releases at Watches and Wonders Geneva.
It’s official: green is the colour of the year, at least in watchmaking. Never has this been more apparent than at Patek Philippe, where 4 important references have been released in the new colourway that on from last year’s green dial models. That includes the Ref. 5905/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph, Ref. 5968G-010 Aquanaut Chronograph and Aquanaut Luce, Ref. 5711/1A-014 Nautilus that needs no introduction, and Twenty~4 Automatic Ref. 7300/1200A-011.
At the recent Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, Patek Philippe introduced 12 releases, of which 4 featured dials in hues of green ranging from olive to emerald. Each are line extensions, given a refreshing new identity with a splash of green.
The Ref. 5270P In Green
The Ref. 5270P-014 is the latest in a long line of renowned Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs, and certainly one of the most desired watches produced by the brand among collectors. The dual-counter chronograph display is balanced with an analog date counter, finished with easy-to-read moon phase indication and windows for the day and month. Two indicators on either side of the date counter reflect the day/night and leap year reading.
Powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q movement that’s fully revealed through the sapphire caseback, the watch is a stunner both technically and aesthetically. Like its predecessors, it bears the stepped, angled lugs and concave bezel only seen in high complications by Patek Philippe. What makes the platinum model distinct, compared to its rose and yellow gold siblings, is the absent “chin strap”, where the date counter cuts into the chemin de fer minute track. On the Ref. 5270P-014, the date display sits just above it.
The dial is spectacular, produced by applying layer after layer of green lacquer and further treating it to create a gradient effect with a darker outer rim. The result is a dial that almost seems to emanate a glow from its centre – it feels as if one is peering into the heart of a verdant green emerald.
A New Twenty~4 Dial
The Twenty~4 is a stalwart of the brand. First created in 1999, it was given a refresh when it celebrated its 21st anniversary, in 2020. The Ref. 4910/1200A was a subtle update from the Ref. 4910/10A. Baton markers replaced diamond indexes and Arabic numerals took over from the oversized Roman indicators. The hour markers were given a coat of luminous paint but everything else, in particular its unique manchette bracelet and case middle that flows seamlessly into each other, remained. The first two versions of the new Twenty~4 bore blue or grey sunburst dials. Now an olive-green sunburst dial has joined the mix.
The green dial is only available on the steel model; the Ref. 4910/1201R still comes exclusively with a chocolate brown sunburst dial.
The Ref. 5205R Annual Calendar
First introduced by Patek Philippe in 2010, its instantaneous annual calendar model offers one of the most sophisticated displays in high watchmaking today. Three apertures between the 10 and 2 o’clock hour markers indicate the day, date and month, how most people would write it classically. A moon phase counter coupled with a 24-hour display fills the lower half of the sector-style dial. The design of the calendar means it only requires one adjustment each year, at the end of February, to move the date forward via correctors on each side of the case.
The olive-green sunburst dial has a black gradient rim similar to the Ref. 5270P, with applied rose gold markers and beads for the minute track. The only touches of colour are the midnight blue of the moon phase display and the white calendar discs. The gently rounded bezel and lugs, polished to a mirror finish, are simply alluring and the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206 offers a power reserve of up to 45 hours.
The World Timers of Patek Philippe have set the standard and mark for the entire industry for over 80 years, with both technical and aesthetic improvements enhancing the timepiece as the decades passed. The design of its world timers frequently fuses the finest of its artistic crafts with a simple push-button control that advances the hour easily, letting you see time across the globe at once.
In 2011, the brand created its first world timer specially dedicated to ladies. The Ref. 7130 has seen several variations emerge over the last 11 years, with white and rose gold models accompanying chocolate brown or eggshell displays. For its ladies’ model, the art of guilloché à main (or hand-engraving) is always expressed at the centre of the display. 2017 brought about a refresh of the white gold Ref. 7130G, which is now available in a soft blue with an old-basket weave guilloché motif.
Five years later, the rose gold edition has also been refreshed. The eggshell Ref. 7130R has given way to an olive-green display with the same basket weave guilloché motif, and the daytime hour ring is silvered while the night time ring is in the same green shade as the city indicators on the periphery of the dial. On the back, the sapphire display is maximised to reveal the ultra-thin Caliber 240 HU world time movement, with the micro-rotor swinging freely to drive the elegant timepiece. 62 diamonds are set on the bezel, with 27 more on the buckle.