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Patek Philippe Expands Its High Complication References with New Case and Dial Variations

Patek Philippe Complications 5330g 001 Cortina Watch Featured Image

For Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe is refreshing its collections after retiring several references in 2023.

Having had one of its biggest series of releases in 2023, Patek Philippe focused on refining its range of timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2024. With new variations for existing models and a new addition to its regular collection, the Manufacture aims to have something for every watch collector today.

The biggest highlight is the Ref. 5330G-001 World Time with Date that was initially presented at the “Watch Art” Grand Exhibition in Tokyo last June. This particular model demonstrates how Patek Philippe continues to innovate on the world time complication, which it first developed with Louis Cottier nearly 90 years ago. The Ref. 5330G-001 features a patented date display that syncs with the local time, without any need for correction.


The dial of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G-001 has a red-tipped date hand in glass, that perfectly syncs the date to the local time even when crossing the International Date Line.

While this may appear simple, one tricky aspect was the adjustment of the date when crossing the International Date Line from west to east. This requires the date to turn backwards, a feat accomplished with a central differential that manages the date switch. The date hand itself is also rather unique, using a glass rod with a red lacquered hammer tip that follows a scale on the inner bezel. This maximises legibility for the world time and date functions.

The opaline dial features a carbon motif at the centre of the dial, with the city ring and night zone of the 24-hour ring in a cool blue-gray hue. The city ring has a printed dot between Auckland and Midway, marking the International Date Line. The 40mm white gold watch is equipped with the self-winding Caliber 240 HU C that offers up to 48 hours of autonomy in an ultra-thin form, measuring just 11.57mm thick. For global travellers, this is the perfect travel companion.


The Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG-001 Alarm Travel Time has white gold details combined with the rose gold case for a subtle two-tone effect.

Of course, another excellent travel partner is the Ref. 5520RG-001 Alarm Travel Time. The Ref. 5520 was first released in 2019 in platinum and now adds a new rose gold model with subtle two-tone accents. White gold is added to the design of this watch, used on the dial as well as the tubes of the four control pushers of the watch.

The watch is one of the most powerful and pragmatic travel timepieces you can find, with a dual-time display shown with an additional skeletonised hour hand on the main dial, and a date display that follows the local time as well as day/night indications for both time zones. But the most impressive aspect of the watch is its chiming alarm, with a rapidly striking gong and single hammer that activates at a preset time. What’s impressive is the clarity and quality of the alarm, which begins just slightly before the set time, so the owner can enjoy hearing it in full.


The gong of the Caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS can be seen through the case back of the Patek Philippe Ref. 5520RG-001.

The 42.2mm watch is housed in rose and white gold with a grey sunburst dial. The white gold hour markers and hands are coated with luminescent material to ensure visibility at night. The Ref. 5520RG-001’s field watch design complements the colour scheme of the watch, with a brown calf leather strap that straddles both casual and formal at once.

Sophisticated Calendars

Patek Philippe’s perpetual calendars are highly prized and desired by collectors. The Manufacture offers different expressions of this sophisticated complication and this year sees three new variations that are classic, modern, and contemporary in style.


The Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R-001 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar with Rare Handcrafts is the most elaborately decorated of the three perpetual calendar models released this year.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5160/500R-001 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar with Rare Handcrafts showcases the Manufacture’s expertise in the traditional craft of hand-engraving. Housed in a rose gold case with a silver opaline dial, the dial, bezel, case middle, crown, hinged cover, fold-over clasp, screws and lugs are all beautifully decorated with volutes and foliage. The design of this engraving is based on a pocket watch from the Patek Philippe Museum.

On the dial, two apertures on the left and right indicate the day of the week and month respectively. Between the two lies a retrograde date display, indicated with a red-tipped hand and at 6 o’clock is a moon phase display in a deep blue with rose gold accents. The applied Breguet numeral hour markers are made of blackened white gold, and an additional leap year window rests above the Manufacture’s logo on the dial.


The hinged Officer’s case features hand-engraved volutes and foliage on the back of the case as well as around the exhibition case back, in addition to the case middle, lugs, and more.

Flip open the hinged Officer’s case and you’ll see the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S QR movement, that holds a power reserve of up to 45 hours, ensuring the calendar remains accurate even when it’s not worn. The grandeur of the Ref. 5160/500R-001 cannot be overstated; it’s simply breathtaking, to say the least.


With its rose gold dial and linear perpetual calendar display, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5236P-010 is an ode to mid-century modernism.

If your design preferences favour the minimalist and modern, the Ref. 5236P-010 delivers the same complication in an elegant yet utilitarian style. With a patented linear perpetual calendar that indicates the day, date, and month in a single aperture at 12 o’clock, the watch offers generous negative space that lets its design breathe. A small seconds counter and moon phase display is positioned at 6 o’clock, with a day/night and leap year aperture on either side.

The dial is an opaline rose-gilt display with a matte finish that gives it a very modern, timeless design, accompanied by blackened white gold applied baton hour markers and hands. As with its platinum cases, Patek Philippe has set a brilliant-cut diamond at the bottom of the case. The watch comes with a solid and sapphire crystal case back that can be interchanged, to admire the self-winding Caliber 31-260 PS QL with platinum rotor.


The Patek Philippe Ref. 5396G-017 has a gradient blue-to-black dial that’s set with baguette-cut diamond hour markers, adding a touch of glamour to its contemporary design.

Finally, for those who enjoy a contemporary take on dress watches, Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5396 Annual Calendar with Moon Phase now comes in a white gold case with a sunburst blue dial that graduates to black at the edges. The annual calendar complication was first developed by the Genevan Manufacture as a practical alternative to the perpetual calendar, requiring just one adjustment a year for the month of February.

The calendar indicators are all presented in small windows, with the day of the week and month just below the Manufacture’s logo, and the date at 6 o’clock. A small counter indicates the day/night time in analogue format, along with the phases of the moon. Finally, 12 baguette-cut diamonds indicate the hours, giving this watch a touch of glamour. The Caliber 26-330 S QA LU 24H can be viewed through the back of the watch, its full-sized rotor keeping the mainspring with 45 hours of power reserve wound.

Of course, these are not the only models released this year. There are new Aquanauts and a new Nautilus, as well as a Golden Ellipse model that’s spectacular in design. If you’d like to learn more about any of these references, feel free to reach out to a representative at any of our boutiques.

Discover more Patek Phillipe collections with Cortina Watch online, visit us at our boutiques, or contact a sales representative today to learn more.