A highlight of Vacheron Constantin’s novelties launched during Watches & Wonders 2020.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Watch
Shaped watches continue to capture our imagination as more and more watchmakers attempt to re-interpret the zeitgeist of the luxury sports watch genre but Vacheron Constantin has been a veteran in this arena, ever since its collaboration with Jorg Hysek on the Ref. 222, the Overseas, arguably its spiritual successor has been ever developed and evolved through the intervening decades and at 2020, in its present form – arguably the best shape a luxury sports timepiece has ever been in. We are referring of course, to the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin.
Pink gold illuminates the distinctive Overseas blue epitomising the spirit of sporty elegance, the latest Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin offers a perfect combination of casual chic – dressed up in formal attire or ready for a waterfront stroll in beach shorts, the new Overseas combines the stately expression of a perpetual calendar high complication with the irrepressible warmth of pink gold and noble blue.
The first ultra-thin Overseas perpetual calendar in full gold execution, the lustre of gold extends to its shimmering blue dial, matched in equal elegance with gilt hour-markers, hands and moon discs also made of 18K 5N pink gold. The blue-lacquered gold dial captivates onlookers with its sunburst satin finish, while the counters enhance legibility by way of snailed decoration, distinguishing important timing indications from their immediate surroundings. These delicate decorations contrasting with the vertical-brushed of the case endow the blue dial with its full strength of character.
The ultra-thin Manufacture 1120 QP/1 calibre drives the Overseas perpetual calendar. A marvellous feat of miniaturisation, no less than 276 components required to make a self-correcting calendar with moon phase accurate till 2100, squeezed into a 4.05 mm thin movement. But if you thought the Overseas perpetual calendar was the pinnacle execution of such a remarkable high complication, the openworked edition will give you pause.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton Watch
Just 8.1 mm thick, 2020 sees Vacheron Constantin highlighting the finest expression of Haute Horlogerie in an exquisite skeletonised edition of its Overseas perpetual calendar. Retaining its dynamic design but eschewing blue lacquered dial for unabashed transparency, the world’s oldest continuously operating manufacture takes us on a journey right into the heart of fine watchmaking.
Entirely openworked, which is a feat in itself, it reveals its mechanical intricacies beneath a sapphire crystal, every inch of the ultra-thin Manufacture 1120 QP/1 calibre is slaved over for its naked debut – a journey of centuries of artisanal skills come together to endow the mechanism with aesthetic perfection: Straight-graining the surfaces for a satin-brushed finish; the interplay of ambient lights maximised thanks to bevelling straight lines and curves; circular brushing, sunburst finishing, circular-graining and polishing to ensure varied reliefs, creating a mechanical wonder which belies hours of continuous visual merriment.
The caseback likewise fascinates with its unparalleled transparency, staging an operatic watchmaking ballad starring the gear trains and the NAC-treated oscillating weight with its segment in 22K gold