Frontline Flex: Franck Muller Unveils A New-Look Vanguard

That said, the first Vanguard models arrived with a clear sense of identity. For one, there was no mistaking the watches for anything else but Franck Muller thoroughbreds. The watches’ curvaceous tonneau-shaped cases echo the silhouette of the iconic Cintree Curvex collection (French for “arched in a curve”). The famous curvilinear profile, which endows the Cintrée Curvex watches with three-dimensionality and smooth curves from every angle, has been adopted and reimagined with greater volume and presence on the Vanguard collection.

The heft and muscularity of the Vanguard case extended to the dial. Swapping out the Art Deco-inspired numerals found on the Cintree Curvex models, the designers at Franck Muller opted for a bolder and more modern typeface, arranging them in a sunray-style across the face of the watch. Paired with thick, semi-skeletonised hands, and broad, sturdy straps, the Vanguard collection heralded a fresh dawn for Franck Muller’s sports-inspired creations—but of course, there was always going to be more than meets the eye.

It is the new dial, however, that steals the show. The pavé de losanges guilloché pattern forms a rhythmic interplay of angles and reflection. Created through four stages of precise stamping at Franck Muller’s Les Bois dial manufacture, the result is an almost kinetic surface where light skips across diamond-shaped facets. At its centre, a subtle sunburst texture creates visual contrast, adding focus without flashiness.

Each of the five available colourways—navy, grey, green, black, and brown—reveals a distinct mood. The navy, grey, and black editions convey quiet confidence, the green feels spirited, and the brown exudes understated warmth. Layered over these surfaces are hand-painted and applied numerals that rise gently from the dial, complemented by polished hands that reinforce the collection’s identity. A muted matte bezel frames the display, ensuring the proportions feel cohesive and balanced.