Watches & Wonders 2025: Tudor New Releases

The Black Bay 58 has earned a reputation as an enthusiast’s favourite, and now the watch is getting the Master Chronometer treatment. For the first time, the new all burgundy Black Bay 58 also comes on a 5-link bracelet with T-fit, too.

The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s.

This new edition of the Black Bay 58 retains all the core design elements from TUDOR throughout the ages and includes aesthetic notes from a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ‘90s. The watch boasted a brilliant burgundy dial with a matching bezel. It never saw production, but this design now lives on in the form of a brand-new Black Bay 58.

On top of the new design, the new Black Bay 58 gets the Master Chronometer certification, one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Each fully assembled watch is tested in Switzerland by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS.

To tie the whole package together, the new Black Bay 58 is now available on a 5-link bracelet, a 3-link bracelet, or a rubber strap. All three have TUDOR’s rapid adjustment system known as T-fit, making the watch more wearable than ever before.

"Rivet-Style" Bracelet, 5-Link Bracelet, or Rubber Strap, all with "T-Fit"

The 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet of the Black Bay 58 model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one.

These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser finished heads. This bracelet, along with the 5-link stainless steel bracelet, also comes with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment.

Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp also features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay 58. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.

Engineered specifically to overcome the challenges associated with saturation diving, this is the most technically capable Pelagos ever made, with 1,000 metres of water resistance, a proprietary bracelet adjustment system, and a 43mm titanium case. It represents a giant stride in technical advancements with a Master Chronometer Certification from METAS. Meet the Pelagos Ultra, ready to reach new depths.

TUDOR took a standard Pelagos, already one of the most capable divers’ watches out there, and asked the simple question: What criteria would it need to meet for deep sea exploration? What would allow it to stand up to the technical challenges of operating in the twilight zone from 200 metres to 1,000 metres? The answer is the Pelagos Ultra.

Its titanium case has grown to 43mm to meet a staggering depth rating of 1,000 metres. Luminescence has been thought through to increase visibility with two different colours: blue and green. The bracelet has also been completely redesigned with this deep-diving brief in mind.

TUDOR knows most people who wear this watch will never operate at 1,000 metres beneath the sea—but that’s not the point of it. This watch is an exercise in extremes, an idea born from “what if?”. It’s the product of designing without limits. Because if it could withstand the rigours at a depth of 1,000 metres, surely it could withstand, well, just about anything.

The Pelagos Ultra model joins the TUDOR family of technical divers’ watches with a range-topping 1,000 metres of water resistance. While the Pelagos, Pelagos LHD and Pelagos FXD models perpetuate a purely technical aquatic heritage, the Pelagos Ultra dials it up to an 11, offering functions specific to highly specialized and relatively niche professional deep sea dives.

The Pelagos Family

The TUDOR Pelagos line offers a variety of highly technical, mechanical divers’ watches at the forefront of this sector. Now made up of a number of models, this product family is the worthy heir of TUDOR tool watches, adopted since the 1950s by pioneers of underwater exploration around the world.

The Pelagos and Pelagos LHD models, for righthanded and left-handed divers respectively, provide an ergonomic solution that is not only tailored to most underwater environments but is specifically designed for so-called “saturation” dives thanks to the helium escape valve. The Pelagos FXD model, developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers, is an instrument that makes it possible to perform countdowns with ease during so called “oxygen” dives, in which users do not descend to depths requiring decompression stops.

The Pelagos FXD GMT is designed to suit the needs of the French Naval Aviation, with the addition of a function that allows aviators and flight support personnel to keep track of “Zulu time” in addition to local time and a third time zone. The entire FXD range sits inside the Pelagos family and serves as a technical platform that can be adapted to a specific use case.

Finally, the Pelagos 39 model forms a bridge between land and sea, meeting all the ISO standards for divers’ watches, with versatility and enhanced aesthetic
touches.

TUDOR introduces an entirely new Black Bay model in 43mm, meeting the demand for various case sizes to fit all types of wrists. With two new colour configurations, the Black Bay 68 means business. The big deal isn’t just a brand new case size, but that the Black Bay 68 is Master Chronometer certified by METAS, too!

TUDOR isn’t afraid to go against the grain—it’s been in the brand’s DNA since the very beginning. Everyone knows the “trend” in modern watchmaking is to go smaller. But this time it’s all about thinking big, and that means producing a larger Black Bay to round out the full array of case sizes for every wrist size. Now, with the Black Bay 68, there’s a Black Bay for everyone.

1968 is the year TUDOR dreamed up what’s now become its aesthetic calling card: the emblematic Snowflake hand. It entered the catalogue shortly thereafter in ’69. The Black Bay 68 pays homage to this important moment in the brand’s history. Another TUDOR mainstay, “TUDOR Blue” makes its way into the design of the Black Bay 68 in the form of a new dial. Along with the TUDOR rose on the crown, the Black Bay 68 is full of nods to TUDOR’s past.

What’s new, however, is a bracelet with smooth side flanks instead of the vintage inspired rivets.

Comprehensive Independent Certification and High Standards

METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision.

In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on uncased movements and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre.

The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss.

Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the silver or TUDOR Blue dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.

New 3-Link Stainless Steel Bracelet with “T-Fit”

The Black Bay comes fitted on an entirely satin-brushed 3-link stainless steel bracelet that features smooth flanks on the links, departing from the “rivet-style” bracelet typical of the Black Bay range. Additionally, the taper is gradual, contrasting the “ladder-style” taper that is also typical of the Black Bay. The redesigned bracelet was developed with wearing comfort in mind to match the aesthetics of the largest Black Bay in the line-up. It also features the TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp also features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

“This time it’s all about thinking big, and that means producing a larger Black Bay to round out the full array of case sizes for every wrist size. Now, with the Black Bay 68, there’s truly a Black Bay for everyone.”

The date, displayed through an aperture positioned at 3 o’clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when setting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day.

A highly unusual, sophisticated and particularly practical function for the user.

Adventurer Spirit and Technical Aesthetics

Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the two-year British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice over 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists.

Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TUDOR watch, the Oyster Prince model, and couldn’t imagine a better environment for testing it than the extreme climate of the Arctic. The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those instruments used by the pioneering explorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use.

Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it features many unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown, which was entirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, this component is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.

These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufacturing methods with solid links and laser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and leather with a folding clasp.

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652

The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable architecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured movements rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

It has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled.

To mark five decades of its chronographs, TUDOR offered its Black Bay Chrono model in steel with a reworked case and two dial options with contrasting sub-counters in the purest tradition of the sports chronograph. Now the model comes with the option of a 3-link or 5-link bracelet, both with “T-Fit” clasp.

Since the launch in 1970 of the Oysterdate model, its first chronograph, TUDOR has always produced watches that are closely tied to the world of motor sport. Since 1954, TUDOR has likewise been constantly improving its professional divers’ watches. The Black Bay Chrono model combines these traditions in a sports chronograph for purists, with contrasting sub-counters and a high-performance automatic Manufacture Calibre, with column wheel and vertical
clutch.

The Spirit of Asphalt and Sea

Remaining faithful to the Black Bay aesthetic, the Black Bay Chrono model has made the famous “Snowflake” hands – a brand signature for divers’ watches since 1969 – its own, in a version honed to ensure optimum readability on its domed dial.

Available in two versions, matt black or opaline, the dial includes two hollowed sub-counters in contrasting colours, white opaline or matt black respectively, for optimum readability. Inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs, there is a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at 6 o’clock.

Both bracelets feature TUDOR’s “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp also features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

The Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813

The Manufacture Chronograph Calibre MT5813, which powers the Black Bay Chrono model, displays hour, minute, second, chronograph and date functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces with laser decorations.

Boasting a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring, the Manufacture MT5813 Chronograph Calibre is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance exceeding the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4/+6 seconds’ variation per day.

50 Years of TUDOR Chronographs

In 1970, TUDOR introduced its first chronograph, the Oysterdate. A watch that was both robust and functional, its unique design was characterised by its bright colours, its pentagonal hour markers shaped like a baseball home plate, its 45-minute counter and its date function at 6 o’clock. Immediately adopted by the world of motorsport, it paved the way for more than 50 years of technical chronographs that TUDOR has never stopped improving.

“Inspired by the first generation of TUDOR chronographs, the dial layout includes a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at 6 o’clock.”