All You Need to Know About Selecting the Right GMT Watches

GMT watches are pragmatic yet idealistic, built upon the dream that travel takes you places. A GMT watch simultaneously displays local time and home time, keeping you informed wherever you may be in the world. A rare combination of user-friendliness and watchmaking complexity, this advantageous function is favoured by frequent travellers, intrepid explorers and discerning professionals.

History of GMT Watches

All You Need to Know About Selecting the Right GMT Watches - Cortina Watch Thailand — The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 edition features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert (credit: Longines)

GMT watches came to the fore during the golden age of air travel when commercial transatlantic flights took off in the 1950s. It was a natural evolution of horology as the world drew closer and travel became faster and widespread. GMT watches orientate travellers and bind them to a sense of place. Demand skyrocketed as more travellers called for watches that could display multiple time zones.

Dual-time wristwatches and pocket watches preceded GMT watches but were hardly archetypal. The modern Longines Spirit Zulu Time, for example, is a homage to the first Longines dual-time wristwatch manufactured in 1925. Around that time, other watchmakers experimented with fitting two movements inside the same watch, each with separate sets of hands attuned to respective time zones. While the earliest GMT watches were aimed at aviators, it was the advent of commercial jet travel that ushered in the rise of GMT watches.

This growing appreciation propelled watchmakers to innovate to keep up not just with pilots but travellers, diplomats and businessmen. While travelling, calling home at the right time was essential – such was the responsibility placed upon the GMT watch to correctly display multiple time zones.

The Meaning of GMT

Based on solar time, GMT, short for Greenwich Mean Time, represents the annual mean time of each day when the sun crosses the Prime Meridian at the Royal Observatory Greenwich. Historically it served as the international standard of civil time, beginning in 1884 when the Greenwich Meridian was recommended as the Prime Meridian of the World, thus becoming the reference for the global system of time zones. Its prominence lasted till 1972, thenceforth superseded by Coordinated Universal Time (UTC) based on atomic clocks. The term GMT continues to be used interchangeably with UTC by the masses, even though they are fundamentally different.

The term GMT encapsulates heritage and history. Its enduring sentimental value is reflected in the persistence of the GMT hand in the standard dual-time watches affectionately known as GMT watches.

With the presence of a secondary hour hand (GMT hand), a single GMT watch fulfills the role of two watches by displaying two time zones at once. It saves travellers from having to choose between correcting the watch to match the time at their destinations and constantly doing arithmetic to ascertain the time at their places of origin – much less the quiddity of wearing two watches, each synced to a different time zone.

The interactive nature of GMT watches makes them an excellent choice for watch collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate their rewarding tactility.

A standard GMT watch houses seconds, minute and hour hands, in addition to defining features such as the GMT hand usually coated in a different colour to eliminate any confusion from the primary hour hand, as well as the 24-hour scale articulated in the flange, or on the fixed or rotating bezel.

With a flange or fixed bezel, the GMT watch is capable of displaying two time zones, while the variant equipped with a bi-directional rotating bezel can be used to track up to three time zones. The GMT hand tracks home time, while the hour hand tracks local time.

Furthermore, GMT watches are grouped into flyers and callers. The difference lies in the implementation of their GMT and hour hands. A flyer GMT mechanism allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently in hourly increments, while the GMT hand remains unmoved. This enables swift changes when crossing time zones. Conversely, caller GMT watches allow the GMT hand to be adjusted independently, while the hour hand functions normally; this feature is especially useful when tracking a second time zone remotely. Luxury watchmakers tend to favour flyer GMT over caller GMT mechanisms as the former better caters to the need of frequent flyers.

To illustrate how to use a flyer GMT watch, let us use the example of crossing from Malaysia to Paris, France. Malaysia uses the time zone of UTC +8, while Paris, France observes UTC +1 during standard time, as opposed to summer time when it observes UTC +2. In short, there is a 7-hour difference between the two regions outside of summer. For GMT watches fitted with a rotating 24-hour bezel, the bezel should be reset to its original position with the 0 or 24 typically denoted with an inverted triangle aligning with the traditional hour marker 12.

Prior to embarking on the journey and while still located in Malaysia, travellers can synchronise both hour and GMT hands to the local time, for example, of 12 am, with the hour hand pointing at the hour marker 12 and the GMT hand aligned with 0 or 24 on the 24-hour scale. Assuming the flight departs at 12 am to Paris, a journey taking 14 hours, upon arrival, the hour hand on the watch will point at 2 pm, while the GMT will point at 14 on the 24-hour scale. At this moment while the time back in Malaysia is 2 pm, the local time in Paris is only 7 am. To correct the time difference and still maintain the correct home time, travellers must adjust the hour hand to match local time by turning the crown. After which, the hour hand should point at 7, while the GMT hand remains in situ at 14 indicating that it is 2 pm back home.

Furthermore, the date in modern GMT watches corrects itself automatically by advancing or backtracking when the hour hand moves forward or backwards across midnight.

Specific to flyer GMT watches fitted with a 24-hour bi-directional rotating bezel, this extra feature can be used to track a third time zone. To display the time in Tokyo, Japan, which does not observe daylight savings and being an hour ahead of Malaysia, travellers can turn the bezel counter-clockwise by an hour, the GMT hand will now point at 15, indicating that Tokyo is now 3 pm. Similarly, to track Bangkok, Thailand, which is two hours behind Tokyo, travellers can advance the bezel in a clockwise direction by two hours, with the GMT hand now pointing at 13, indicating that it is 1 pm in Bangkok. To return to tracking home time in Malaysia, the bezel must be returned to its starting, upright position.

Why Choose a GMT Watch?

Global Convenience

GMT watches provide round-the-world convenience, tracking major cities and regions. This feature caters especially to business leaders, pilots and crews, hoteliers, frequent travellers, across a broad spectrum of international trade, civil aviation, and travel and hospitality.
Technical Craftsmanship

Built on know-how perfected through time, the highly specialised GMT mechanism is engineered to work faultlessly with a proven movement either as a module or designed from the ground up as an integrated GMT movement, to achieve desired thinness, energy efficiency and longevity. The GMT function is incorporated into the crown, enabling any adjustment to be done on the go.

GMT watches not only track multiple time zones, they are crafted in robust materials and construction for enhanced water resistance and anti-magnetism. This unwavering commitment to innovation and craftsmanship ensures GMT watches function exceptionally despite the rigours of travelling and the ever-changing environment.
Distinctive Aesthetics

From aviation, to racing, to dress-chic, GMT watches are available in a variety of styles. Some highlight bold, eye-catching colours and distinctive, sporty bezels, while others present sophisticated and timeless appeal. However it may look, the consistent feature of GMT watches is legibility, guaranteeing that reading of time is effortless. On GMT watches, style goes hand in hand with function.
Resale Value and Legacy

GMT watches, especially iconic models with a long lineage, are coveted by serious watch collectors. Their practicality and aesthetics lend well to value preservation, and in some cases, are viable investments and assets.

Iconic GMT Watches in the Making

Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT 41mm

Rooted in contemporary design, the sleek Bell & Ross BR-05 GMT is made for modern explorers and jet-setters. Immediately recognisable, the iconic square case accentuating a circular flange and dial is among watchmaking’s finest aesthetic codes. Paired with the dynamic integrated bracelet, this GMT watch expresses the brand’s timeless, exciting identity without compromising on comfort, legibility and durability. It is carved in stainless steel with contrasted finishes, expertly reflecting the light and echoing the architecture of state-of-the-art aircraft hangers.

Within the commodious 41mm case is the versatile dual-time complication, tracking up to two time zones simultaneously with ease and precision. A first in the BR-05 range, this complication is powered by the automatic BR-CAL.325 calibre. It steers the 24-hour second time zone via a quick adjustment of the independent GMT hand in red and white, instantly providing precision and connecting travellers. Inscribed on the black sunburst dial, the 24-hour inner bezel divided into day and night provides intuitive reading.

An ally for navigating the world’s destinations and their respective time zones, the BR-05 GMT is a dynamic creation capturing the energy of its wearer and the pulsating city. It is a watch expressing symmetry and wanderlust.

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Co‑Axial Master Chronometer GMT Worldtimer

An extraordinary watch designed to track every time zone, the OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer transcends GMT with an exclusive world-time complication exhibiting an exact finishing that mirrors the Northern Hemisphere’s topography. It is a unique interpretation orchestrating OMEGA’s signature precision, durability and materialism in a single creation built for international travellers and passionate collectors.

Vivid to the senses, the Earth envisioned from above the North Pole complete with vast oceans and continents is brought to life via the innovative laser ablation. Every aspect of colouring and relieving is surgically performed on the grade 5 titanium dial to highlight topographic features, while the domed watchscape echoes the curvature of the Earth. It is surrounded by a Hesalite glass ring with a 24-hour indication divided into night and day halves.

A nod to Swiss watchmaking, OMEGA’s home city of Bienne is symbolically chosen to adorn one of the time zones on the inner ring, while all places, bar London – with the exception of hand varnishing in red to represent Universal Time (UTC) – are listed in white.

Bold, assertive and sporty, this 43mm worldtimer wields lightweight, anti-magnetic and corrosion-resistant architecture. The METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8938 powers this distinctive timepiece. Reassuring with 150m water resistance and made of brushed grade 2 titanium, it is the ultimate statement timepiece for globetrotters.

Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40

Boasting a rich heritage in aviation, Breitling offers the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 to stylish travellers looking to stamp their own lasting impressions. An ode to travel and exploration, this dual-time timepiece pairs exceptional colours with mid-century-inspired aesthetics. The Chronomat’s versatility has earned the collection an enduring reputation as the watch for every pursuit, crafted in a practical size of 40mm, with understated elegance and for all purposes.

Evident in its sports-chic profile, the watch invites the gaze with a timeless yet vibrant coloured dial and an all-steel case and bracelet combination, perfect for any occasion and attire. The GMT hand underpins the dual-time complication with a tone-on-tone 24-hour scale, enabling the two time zones and day or night to be read instantly. It is easily adjustable via the fluted and dome shaped crown, a classic Chronomat feature. Powering the GMT mechanism is the automatic Breitling Caliber 32, created with remarkable attention to detail.

Featuring a sturdy and proven design, the GMT 40 has an impressive 200m water resistance to accompany you on a range of activities. Symmetrical and distinctive, the proprietary Rouleaux bracelet adds a refined touch to the watch made to be worn anywhere, anytime. Now available in NFL-inspired editions, the GMT 40 signifies heart, desire and ambition.

Final Thoughts on Choosing the Right GMT Watch

GMT watches are celebrated for their pragmatism and emotive design – the desire to travel and explore the world. In a connected world where destinations near and far are only hours away, GMT watches stand out as reliable instruments to keep track of multiple time zones. This practicality makes GMT watches advantageous to business leaders, frequent travellers and serious watch collectors.

Telegraphic of your style and preference, the GMT watch is a personal statement and presence radiating from your wrist. Transcending watchmaking passion, innovation and excellence, the GMT watch is a mechanical art form of the highest order. Its legacy in watchmaking is absolute.

Cortina Watch is a leading luxury watch retailer in Asia. Secure an appointment with us today and discover the expansive array of timeless, innovative GMT watches we have curated to be your trusted travel partners. With the assistance of our experienced advisers, you will be ready to take on the world.

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