Patek Philippe Showcases Its Creative and Technical Savoir-Faire in Multiple Ways

There’s no better example of how a larger dial offers more opportunity for complexity with legibility than Patek Philippe’s Caliber 89, which was developed to commemorate the watchmaker’s 150th anniversary. With a large 88.2mm diameter case and two dials for calendrical and astronomical complications separately, the ease of absorbing all of the relevant information cannot be overstated. However, since most people will not wear a pocket watch as a wrist or neck accessory, the modest (by comparison) proportions of the Ref. 5822P-001 Cubitus with Instantaneous Grande Date, Day and Moon Phases will have to suffice.

Precision and consistent performance are the hallmarks of a Patek Philippe complication, and in the instantaneous jumping calendar, of the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, there are six patents, governing the display operations and adjustment. Energy management is key, as there are up to four displays jumping at midnight within 30 milliseconds. Another is the alignment of the co-planar grande date display, which can also be adjusted at any time of the day without the possibility of a double jump. To display all of this information comfortably, a larger case and dial are necessary. Conveniently, the Cubitus’ integrated lug design makes the watch easy to wear as a strap or bracelet that can flex fully to fit the wrist well.

It’s also in the design of the Ref. 5822P-001’s dial, and the Ref. 7340/1R-001, that shows how finishes and design elements enhance a dial’s beauty. The embossed dials of the Cubitus, enhanced with a sunburst finish and rich dial colours of blue or olive green, offer a sophisticated industrial look that’s both elegant and rugged. The genteel “shantung” finish of the Ref. 7340/1R-001 with horizontal and vertical satin brushing creates a captivating backdrop against which the multiple counters of the perpetual calendar are shown. A comparison of the amount of negative space each reference offers shows a similar proportion; this is how the watchmaker ensures information is never overwhelming on its dials.

There is another category of high complications that benefit from a larger case, and they are the chiming complications. This is one area of expertise that Patek Philippe is beloved for, and the advantage of having a larger case on its chiming timepieces is that the case acts as a resonance chamber, amplifying chimes and minimising any impact to pitch or tone. The Caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is one of the watchmaker’s most complicated movements, with a Grande and Petite Sonnerie function as well as a minute repeater, and two barrels that drive the timekeeping and chiming gear trains separately. For a seamless, error-proof operation, the entire watch can be managed using a single crown.

The harmonious tones of the Grand Sonnerie watch are accompanied by an equally well-balanced dial, in a hand-painted black enamel on gold dial plate. Through multiple coats of enamel and firings at a high temperature, it creates a lustrous black enamel that will never fade, with bright white print that stands out against the jet black backdrop.

Two Calatrava Pilot models epitomise how Patek Philippe both provides information in a thoughtful way to its wearers, and in its absence allows its designs room to breathe. The Calatrava Pilot Alarm Travel Time and Calatrava Pilot Travel Time share similar physical proportions – the former is less than a millimetre thicker and 0.2 millimetres wider – and adds a chiming alarm function for a set timing. Where the Ref. 5520 maxes out the real estate on the dial, with a digital alarm display at 12 o’clock and dual pushers and crowns to control all of the functions, the Ref. 5524 offers generous negative space, which enhances appreciation of its style and balance.