17 Dec 2025
Narrowing down a Patek Philippe chronograph to acquire can be a difficult decision. Here are five notable references that each suit a particular lifestyle and personality type.
For many collectors, adding a Patek Philippe chronograph watch to their collection is an important milestone. Ever since the watchmaker introduced its in-house produced chronograph movements in 2005, it has unveiled new patents and innovations that deliver precision and performance improvements. An additional benefit of these technical improvements is a reduction in thickness of its chronographs. The 5.25mm thick Caliber CHR 27-525 PS that was unveiled 20 years ago, for example, was the slimmest split-seconds chronograph movement in the world at the time. This was followed by the self-winding Caliber 28-520 the following year, and the Caliber 29-535 PS in 2009. Each movement has its own advantages and highlights; selecting the best chronograph that suits a collector requires consideration on their preferred aesthetics, usage of the complication, and lifestyle habits.
This is for the bon vivants who appreciate the very finest in life, and who rarely use a chronograph for anything other than the pleasure of its enjoyment. Someone who possesses a great passion for the classics in art and design, and appreciates contemporary style. Only one category of Patek Philippe chronographs will befit their style – the split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar. The elegant Ref. 5204G-001 manages to be both discreet and down-to-earth, balancing its classic lines and curves with a modern colour palette in olive green. The mirror-polished, stepped lugs and gently curved bezel and case middle elevate its look, adding depth to an otherwise minimalist form. The dial distinguishes between chronograph, time-telling, and calendar displays, using different fonts types and decorative finishes for clarity. The perpetual calendar module is just 1.65mm thick and shows the day and month in two compact windows with a leap year indicator to the right of the date and moon phase sub-dial, mirroring the day and night aperture on the left.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5204G-001 Split-Seconds Calendar with Perpetual Calendar is equipped with the Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q, which features two technical innovations just for the split-seconds function. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
The chronograph’s counters on the Ref. 5204G-001’s dial may appear simple, but it is deceptively so. Flip over to the exhibition case back and you will discover the Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q, with its chronograph operations exposed fully to allow the wearer to enjoy its use. The 4Hz movement has an instantaneous 30-minute counter and a power reserve of 65 hours, with a horizontal clutch to engage the chronograph gears and two column wheels to operate it. Introduced in 2012, the movement features an improved isolator spring which works bidirectionally to ensure precise coupling and uncoupling of the split-seconds lever. An improved design for the split-seconds heart cam and split-seconds lever also ensures precise alignment of the seconds hands when they are coupled. Every visible and non-visible surface and chamfered corner of each component is finished and decorated by hand; the mechanical engine of the watch has the style and finesse of a classic sportscar, running precisely and non-stop all day, week, month, year, and century.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph for Left-Handers with Perpetual Calendar in a platinum case with charcoal grey dial with black-gradient rim. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
For anyone with a similar profile as the Haut Monde crowd, but would also travel halfway across the world to join a high-octane classic car race without hesitation, the Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph for Left-Handers with Perpetual Calendar is likely to be the model of choice for them. The modern and polished Arabic numeral hour markers and dashboard-like chronograph and date counters emphasise its sporty image, with a gradient dial and dark brown counters that stand out against the brighter dial centre. Vertically brushed with circular graining on the chronograph counters, it creates a contemporary and sporty look. The chronograph’s functions are indicated with red coloured hands, and the case’s curves are emphasized to really echo the form of a classic sports automobile. The watch strap looks like a woven fabric but is in fact a pattern printed on calfskin, with red stitching that matches the chronograph hands.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph for Left-Handers with Perpetual Calendar is equipped with the Caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
The Ref. 5373P-001 is unique in Patek Philippe’s catalogue as it is the only left-hander watch, with the crown positioned on the left side of the case as it is meant to be worn on the right hand. The movement powering the watch is the CHR 27-525 PS Q, based on the watchmaker’s first in-house chronograph. The movement is the slimmest split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar ever made. It features special geometries for the chronograph wheels to reduce wear and tear. It also offers a distinct design for the 60-minute counter which helps to compensate for the torque difference when the chronograph is started and stopped. The perpetual calendar is presented via windows for the day and month, with separate counters for the date and moon phase display for maximum legibility. Anyone with a penchant for a classic Ferrari will certainly warm to this watch.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A-001 World Time with Flyback Chronograph in stainless steel with rose-gilt opaline dial with carbon motif. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
For collectors who spend more days of the year traversing the globe, either for business or pleasure, and have a global network that they are constantly engaging, Patek Philippe’s world time complication is an essential. The Ref. 5935A-001 in stainless steel is purposed for travel: the steel case means it is able to handle the inevitable accidental knocks and taps that every frequent traveller is used to. Careless handling by customs agents? No worry. The neutral colour palette of the watch, in a rose gold hue with a brown leather strap, makes it easy to match with any dress code and style. It’s not too formal, but not too casual – alternating brushed and mirror-polished surfaces give it a modern, classy image. The carbon motif in the centre of the dial, which has been used by Patek Philippe on a number of dials, has a young, trendy appeal.
The world time complication was a complication developed by Louis Cottier and used by Patek Philippe for nearly a century now. Its design remains close to the original. There are technical updates by Patek Philippe, such as its patented single pusher operation of the hour hand, city disc, and 24-hour disc, which ensures easy reading and control of the time in all 24 zones. The complexity of the world time display is offset by the minimal presentation of the chronograph with a single 30-minute counter and central chronograph seconds hand. As with any travel watch, it’s essential for accurate time-telling, which is why the self-winding chronograph Caliber CH 28-520 is used as the base movement for Ref. 5935A-001, with a world time module added on to it. This chronograph features virtually frictionless vertical coupling, so the chronograph can be kept running for the seconds hand to be used as a running seconds display. It’s a useful function for anyone who has occasional need for a stopwatch or timer – the 30-minute counter is perfect for this.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5924G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with Flyback Chronograph in white gold with blue-grey sunburst dial. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
Anyone with a fondness for vintage aviation and field watches, rugged construction, and possessing a thirst for adventure will favour the Calatrava Pilot’s design. Based off a siderometer from the early 20th century which can be seen at the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, the oversized stencil style fonts and practicality of the watch will certainly collectors with an appreciation for functional design and durability in design. Nevertheless the watch maintains a very elegant look, thanks to a sunburst blue-grey coloured dial that reflects light unevenly to create areas of light and shadow. The oversized date and 60-minute counters are presented vertically to balance the dial’s design, and the Ref. 5924G-001 also has a second time zone function, presented with a second skeletonised hour hand on the main dial. Day and night indications for both local and home time are shown next to the 9 and 3 o’clock markers. The additional function makes this a highly versatile watch that can really multi-task.
Alt text/Caption: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5924G-010 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time with Flyback Chronograph in white gold with khaki green lacquered dial. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
There’s also an alternative design for collectors who favour the military aviation or field watch look, with a sophisticated translation of military khakis with a green lacquered dial. The movement that powers the Ref. 5924G is similar to the Ref. 5935A-001: the self-winding chronograph Caliber CH 28-520 has been fitted with a date and second time zone module rather than a world time complication. Similar to the Ref. 5935A, the watch’s chronograph seconds hand can function as a running seconds display for those who need this, so they know the watch is running. In fact, this is the first Calatrava Pilot model which includes a chronograph complication in this case. With a vertically coupled chronograph, there is virtually no impact on the performance of the watch.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Chronograph in rose gold case set with 40 baguette-cut multicoloured sapphires and 40 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, with baguette-cut multicoloured sapphires for hour markers and 10 baguette-cut diamonds on the clasp. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
Collectors who enjoy the limelight and standing out from the crowd will delight in Ref. 7968/300R-010 — Patek Philippe’s first self-winding chronograph designed for ladies, and the first chronograph introduced within the Aquanaut Luce line. The watch is distinguished by a white mother-of-pearl dial engraved with the signature Aquanaut motif. The sporty timepiece has become a collection for bold style in recent years with striking composite strap colours and dial designs that captivate. Although this model may tilt towards a more feminine audience, gents who enjoy jewellery watches can easily don this timepiece, especially with the light brown composite strap if they feel the fiery red option is too eye-catching. Two rows of baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires are set on the bezel adding sparkle and multicoloured radiance to the wearer’s look.
The multicoloured or “rainbow” gemsetting on the bezel of the Patek Philippe Ref. 7968/300R-001 Aquanaut Chronograph requires careful planning to ensure a perfect transition to the next colour on the spectrum. (Credit: Patek Philippe)
The gemsetting on the bezel and the engraved mother-of-pearl dial are not crafts frequently seen with chronograph watches, which often have a more utilitarian design. By minimising the visibility of the 60-minute counter, it emphasise the beauty of the watch and keeps focus on the rare crafts used to create this timepiece. The multicoloured setting or “rainbow” setting, as it is commonly known, features sapphires in varying colours graduating across the visible spectrum and requires carefully selected stones to ensure a balanced colour graduation, and stones of similar intensity in colour. This is replicated on the dial with hour markers that match the bezel’s sapphires. Adding a chronograph function to a beautifully gemset timepiece is the cherry on top of the icing.
To try on these watches and see if they suit, head to one of our boutiques or reach out to our sales representatives to arrange for an appointment.