14 May 2025
The Watches and Wonders Geneva fair is over. Now that there is time to review everything that Patek Philippe presented, it looks like two major trends of the last 20 years – technical watchmaking and smaller cases – are converging. Naturally, Patek Philippe is leading the way with expertise in both. The watchmaker’s technical innovations were stellar, but the watch which stole the show was really the first complicated Twenty~4 model, the Ref. 7340/1R with an ultra-thin analog perpetual calendar.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7340/1R-010 and 7340/1R-001 Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar references are dressed in rose gold, with an olive sunburst and silvery “shantung” finish dial respectively.
The ladies-oriented Twenty~4 line has focused on essential timekeeping in the past, with a highly sophisticated aesthetic that is inspired by modern jewellery design and natural curves. The entire line features gemset cases that range from a simple row of diamonds on the bezel or sides, to high jewellery editions based on haute couture. This year, it sees its very first complication in 26 years, and the choice of an ultra-thin perpetual calendar to start is just perfect. This is the level of sophistication Patek Philippe believes today’s female watch enthusiasts possess.
The Patek Philippe Caliber 240 Q which is housed in the Ref. 7340/1R-010 and 7340/1R-001 Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar, seen through the exhibition case back of the watch.
A round Twenty~4 case in rose gold, which is inspired by both the Calatrava’s geometry and the Ref. 4910/1200 Twenty~4 manchette quartz model’s curves, is presented with a three-counter analog perpetual calendar display powered by the Caliber 240 Q. This has equipped the Ref. 5327, 5740/1G-001, and Ref. 7140 in the past. With the famed compact and ultra-thin movement powering this timepiece, it enabled Patek Philippe to keep the case measurements at just 36mm in diameter and a sub-10mm thickness. The Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring, and rose gold micro-rotor are visible through the case back, with calendar correctors subtly hidden on the four corners of the case sides.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7340/1R-001 Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar has a stunning silvery dial with vertical and horizontal satin finishing, also known as a “shantung” dial. This technique was used in their ladies’ complication models in the past.
The layout of the dial is similar to the other references using the Caliber 240 Q. The months and leap year are combined at 3 o’clock, with date and moon phase window at 6, and week day with day/night indication at 9. The dial does not feel overcrowded even with the large Arabic numeral indexes of the Twenty~4’s dial. The choice of dial options – in an olive sunburst finish or the silvery “shantung” finish using horizontal and vertical brushing help to amplify the dial’s negative space. This is further enhanced with a polished concave bezel that’s not gemset and tapers smoothly into the manchette-style bracelet.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7128/1G-001 and 7128/1R-001 Cubitus comes in a more compact 40mm case with options of white or rose gold cases and bracelets.
It comes as no surprise to many that the Cubitus collection launched by Patek Philippe last year is expanding, starting with base models in smaller case sizes. The new Ref. 7128 is just 40mm across and fits all wrist sizes; unfortunately for those hoping to have a smaller steel-cased Cubitus watch, that is not in the works for now. The watchmaker has affirmed that at this point, the smaller 40mm case sizes will be exclusively in precious metals, and they are fitted with the Caliber 26-330 S C/434.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7128/1G-001 and 7128/1R-001 Cubitus, as seen from the back to reveal the Caliber 26-330 S C/434 and the slimness of the case.
Rather than stick with the convenience of simply slicing up the case on all sides to shrink it down, Patek Philippe really scaled down the original Ref. 5821 to ensure the proportions of the ultra-thin square-cased watch are maintained all around. It remains incredibly slim at 8.5mm thick, with a slightly thicker movement as well.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7010/1G-013 Ladies’ Nautilus is refreshed with a glossy azure blue lacquer dial, in a 32mm white gold case. with a row of 46 diamonds on the bezel.
Its other luxury sportswatch line, the Nautilus, also enjoys a bit of a rejuvenation with a splash of azure blue on the Ref. 7010/1G-013 Ladies’ Nautilus with quartz movement. This continues Patek Philippe’s efforts to deliver unexpected and surprising variations of timeless watch models through the use of fine crafts such as lacquerwork. Two years ago, they presented the Ref. 4997/200R-001 Ladies Calatrava Joaillerie, plus Ref. 7010R-013 and Ref. 7010/1R-013 Ladies’ Nautiluses with quartz movement, with embossed dials that were further coated with translucent lacquer. This created glossy, richly coloured dials with a complex interplay of light against the patterns. This year, they have opted for an eye-catching and fashion-forward azure blue that is reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent’s 1970s cerulean jackets.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 7010G-013 Ladies’ Nautilus in a 32mm white gold case is also available with a composite strap with a fabric pattern in a matching colour as the dial.
Like the Patek Philippe Ref. 7010R-013, the Ref. 7010G-013 Ladies’ Nautilus comes paired with a composite strap possessing a fabric-like pattern. The woven look is a textural contrast against the wave-motif embossed dial, that’s further coated with azure blue lacquer multiple times before it’s completed. The refreshing blue brings the French Riviera to mind; in fact, the two blue tones formed from the wave-motif looks almost like the waves lapping towards the beachfront, or a cool pool all ready for the summer. Either way, they both look ready to be paired with the latest resort collections this summer.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5811/1460G-001 Haute Joaillerie Nautilus is a high-jewellery model that re-imagines the Nautilus sports watch as a precious jewellery creation.
To top things off, a Haute Joaillerie Nautilus Ref. 5811/1460G release from the watchmaker that’s dripping with diamonds of every cut takes the craft of gemsetting to the level of marquetry work. There are a total of 1,285 brilliant-cut diamonds and 195 baguette-cut diamonds set on the bezel, dial, and bracelet. This requires a master gemsetter to select each stone for colour consistency, position them so each surface is completely covered, and then shape the prongs for each stone to be set securely. Its beauty is blindingly brilliant.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5524G-010 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time has a new ivory lacquered dial with blackened white gold numerals and hands within the white gold case.
The last quarter-century has seen the rise of a new category of fine watchmaking that Patek Philippe defines as “practical complications”. These are functions that are useful to 21st-century living, but were created with mechanical ingenuity. The watchmaker’s public recognition has expanded in part because of these practical complications, and two new references are added with vintage-inspired aesthetics from the 1970s and 1980s.
The Ref. 5524G-010 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, which has a second time zone display that’s integrated into the main dial, takes on safari colours in a khaki green composite strap with a fabric pattern, white gold case, and ivory-coloured lacquerwork on the dial. The lacquer gives the effect of an aged dial, and the aesthetics of the Calatrava Pilot add to its adventurous identity. Large numerals and precisely-edged broad hands are generously coated with luminous material to ensure maximum visibility, andThe Patek Philippe Ref. 4946R-001 Annual Calendar with Moon Phases comes in a 38mm rose gold case and a chestnut-coloured dial with “shantung” finish. the blackened white gold dial components create a strong contrast against the ivory-coloured dial. The home hour is indicated with the skeletonised hand, accompanied by an indicator at 3 o’clock for AM/PM since it runs on a 12-hour display. Likewise, the local time has an aperture at 9 o’clock, next to the date counter.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 4946R-001 Annual Calendar with Moon Phases comes in a 38mm rose gold case and a chestnut-coloured dial with “shantung” finish.
Another icon of the “practical complications” is the Annual Calendar, patented by the watchmaker in 1996. It lies between the complete and perpetual calendar in terms of complexity, requiring only one adjustment each year at the end of February. Just three of the 22 Annual Calendar references in the last 29 years are housed in the smaller Calatrava cases. This year sees a new addition and one that is non-gemset – another first in a complication model originally designed for ladies.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 4936G-001 Ladies’ Annual Calendar with Moon Phases was originally released in 2005. This example is from 2007, auctioned by Bonham’s in 2023.
The 38mm-sized Ref. 4946R-001 Annual Calendar with Moon Phases is no less beautiful, thanks to a chestnut brown dial that’s satin brushed horizontally and vertically to create a look similar to shantung silks. The polished rose gold case with applied numerals and matching details on the counters and moon phase window further adds to its 1980s glamour. The week day, month, and date are displayed in two counters at 9 and 3 o’clock, with a window at 6 for the date. It has the same layout as the first Patek Philippe Ref. 4936G-001 Ladies’ Annual Calendar watch from 2005, but given a dressed down elegance with a denim-pattern calfskin strap. In fact, the Ref. 4946R-001 is designed for unisex appeal, much like the Refs. 7340R and 7340/1R. It’s not about what it was intended, but what the wearer intends it for that matters.