The Art of Watch Finishing: Perlage, Geneva Stripes & More

Affectionately known as the Côtes de Genève, the Geneva Stripes motif creates a visually striking waves-like finish on the surface of the movement. Under an ideal lighting condition, the Côtes de Genève reflects the crest of a wave and in the trough, fine parallel lines, running the length of the movement’s mainplate, bridge and rotor. This ornamental finish can be admired through the transparent caseback, signalling the watch’s provenance and pedigree. This finish is a hallmark of Swiss Made watches and one of the requirements for watches to earn the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) certification.

The Côtes de Genève emerged in the late 19th century in Geneva, Switzerland and began to gain popularity and spread elsewhere in the 20th century when watchmakers learned of its practical and artistic values, particularly with the advent of exhibitive casebacks. During the age of pocket watches, the stripes on the surface helped trap particles and prevent them from settling on other parts of the pocket watches, which at the time often had open casebacks exposed to the elements. Moreover, early wrist watches were made in traditional ateliers – and unlike today’s modern, sterile studios – where dust was a concern and bane to perfection.

Watchmakers have clearly fallen in love with the Côtes de Genève, and despite today’s stringent manufacturing practice put in place, they continue to lavish these distinctive stripes on their finest movements as a testament to its enduring power. Since its introduction, the Côtes de Genève have taken on new forms as the iconic stripes inspired similar motifs found in other famous watchmaking cradles of the world, including Glashütte, Germany, where it is known as the Glashütte Stripes.

Grand Seiko embodies the Japanese spirit of industry, precision and perfection, producing the SBGA465 from its Heritage Collection to pay homage to the picturesque sceneries of Japan. Central to Grand Seiko, Zaratsu polishing is performed on the watch case to maintain its smooth and sharp ridge lines. This watch features Grand Seiko’s exceptional Caliber 9R65 and its proprietary Spring Drive mechanism.

With precision falling within +/- 15 seconds per month, this exclusive mechanical movement is the result of Grand Seiko’s commitment to advanced functionality and exquisite craftsmanship. One of the brand’s specialities is the frosted finish, where watch dials are imbued with unique motifs drawn from the natural and seasonal changes surrounding its watchmaking studios. Every Grand Seiko watch is a reflection of its artisans’ sense of their place in nature.

Elegant and refined, the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune enthralls purists with its timeless aesthetics and an in-house movement, decorated according to Haute Horlogerie tenets and traditions. The latest edition is a romantic evolution of an icon, preserving its distinctive silhouette while elevating it with modern touches.

Accented with gold, its opaline dial is enriched with redesigned hands, 18-ct gold Roman numeral indices, the emblematic “JB” symbol, large apertures and an expressive moonphase indication. At once sculpted and sensual, the 40-mm case is fitted with discreet under-lug correctors, patented in 2005, operable with a quick press of the finger. Slimmer than its predecessors, the watch teases a thinner bezel, a larger crown and a slender profile. It is a complete calendar blessed with artisanal value.

Boasting a sleek design, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Frozen collection available with Midnight Blue and Matrix Green fumé dials is H. Moser & Cie.’s unique take on the futuristic chronograph. Quintessentially Moser, the frosted fumé dial steals attention with its striking gradient colour and glitters. It is an evolution of a signature from the brand known for its bold visions, bridging traditional labour-intensive craftsmanship with the avantgarde and the contemporary.

To accomplish this stunning finish, artisans first have to engrave and stamp on the dial plate before applying a tinted lacquer. The result is a dial that glistens like snow in the sunlight when seen from a certain angle. The transparent caseback showcases the intricate Calibre HMC 907 featuring a variety of demanding hand finishing, affirming H. Moser & Cie’s status as the avant-gardist of Haute Horlogerie.

As one of the leading independent watch brands, Franck Muller is renowned for its repertoire of technical complications and extraordinary craftsmanship. The Vanguard Curvex Cut Flower weaves gemsetting into watchmaking, softening the intense skeletonization with a delicate bouquet. Its refined skeletonized movement is transformed into a blooming garden by the dextrous hands of the skilled craftsmen.

Each petal is an invitation to explore the inner workings of the in-house movement, where 153 parts have been meticulously engraved, decorated and assembled to permit light to illuminate the diamond-swathed masterpiece. The skeletonized bridges double as trellises for the elegant floral motif, encapsulating grace and strength in equal proportions, with the faceted gemstones resonating the sensuality of the chamfered architecture.