The Shape of Time to Come: Six Striking Watches That Aren’t Round

Cartier Santos-Dumont

Cartier’s storied legacy in shaped watches is exemplified by the Cartier Santos-Dumont, which was first designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his close friend, aviation pioneer and style icon, Alberto Santos-Dumont. This watch is not only renowned as the first pilot’s watch but also as one of the earliest men’s wristwatches with a non-round case. Following its initial creation, Cartier introduced this model commercially. Over the years, it has undergone subtle updates while retaining its timeless appeal as a watchmaking icon that has transcended for more than a century.

The two-tone, extra-large model boasts a substantial 46.6mm-wide case crafted from steel and rose gold, adorned with elegant sword-shaped hands. It features Cartier‘s signature Roman numerals and a distinctive spinel cabochon-set crown. Powering this watch is the brand’s own manual-winding Cal. 430 MC mechanical movement.

TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf

TAG Heuer’s new and enhanced Monaco Gulf Edition features its in-house Heuer 02 movement within a finely brushed and polished steel case. This edition captivates with its design, maintaining the iconic Gulf colours of dark blue, turquoise, and orange but interpreting them in a contemporary manner. A departure from its predecessor launched in 2007, the minute sub-counters of this updated iteration now showcase all three Gulf colours together for the first time, and the Gulf logo on the dial adopts a pristine white appearance. The opaline sunray-finished dial adds an intriguing aesthetic dimension, while a polished, rhodium-plated number “60” replaces the 12 o’clock index as a fitting homage to Porsche Gulf racing cars. The watch’s sporty yet sophisticated appearance extends to its perforated blue calfskin leather strap with an orange lining, reminiscent of the 1970s Monaco models. This is also the first Gulf-series of Monaco model that houses the Heuer 02 self-winding movement, which offers 80 hours of power reserve.

Zenith DEFY Skyline Sapphire

Featuring a 41mm steel octagonal case, this variation of the DEFY Skyline has been adorned with 45 baguette-cut sapphires, complemented by a matching sunburst-patterned dial that pays tribute to the brand’s iconic four-pointed star motif. The angular case is complemented by a 12-sided bezel, and its tapered bracelet adds an elegant touch to the otherwise sporty design. It is driven by the El Primero 3620 high-frequency movement that can be admired through its transparent caseback. On the dial side, the sub-dial at 9 o’clock is the first instance of a 1/10th of a second indicator being integrated into a watch dial. Besides a beautifully finished steel bracelet, this watch also comes with interchangeable, blue-patterned rubber straps.