2022年6月20日
After a long two year hiatus, borders have reopened and people are traveling freely again. Just in time for this renewed vigour of the travel industry, Tudor has introduced two new GMT watches – the Black Bay GMT S&G and the Black Bay Pro – that are perfect companions for the avid travelers.
Both these new references come with the coveted GMT complication which allows the tracking of different timezones. These GMTs first gained widespread popularity in the early 1950s among pilots who frequently flew across multiple timezones. Today, the GMT is considered more of a luxury instead of a necessity. But for Tudor, it remains important to celebrate the heritage of this complication. Thus, for their latest releases, they look to the past to create two new references that will surely be the impetus one needs to pack a bag and set off on a new journey.
For those who enjoy the glamour of airline travel, the two-tone Black Bay GMT S&G is a perfect blend of sportiness and sophistication. However, for the those who see travel as a gateway to new adventures, the Black Bay Pro represents a great tool watch to put on.
The combination of steel and gold, together with its riveted bracelet, adds to the touch of sophistication on the Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G (Credit: TUDOR)
Regardless of design, steel and gold two-tone watches have a vintage look to them, and this Tudor Black Bay GMT is no different. Adding a black and brown colour profile on the bezel, this reference exudes a unique warmth when put on the wrist. Playing upon its nostalgic value, the Black Bay GMT S&G is also paired with a bezel in anodised aluminium, a material that has largely been replaced with ceramic in modern times.
Swapping out the bracelet for a leather strap alters the look of the watch altogether. (Credit: TUDOR)
The two-tone design of the 41mm watch bears a luxurious, stylish appeal, and can easily upgrade any outfit.. With their solid builds and pristine finishes, the Black Bay GMT can also leave a great impression and make you stand out in the most interesting way possible. For frequent travellers, the ability of the movement to instantly jump the date to the previous day when adjusting the time backwards past midnight is also a subtle but highly practical technical detail.
At 39mm the watch sits smaller and less clunky on the wrist, exactly what you would expect from a tool watch. (Credit: TUDOR)
1950s was also a time for exploration, and for Tudor, 1952 was the year that 30 explorers embarked on the British North Greenland Expedition to study Arctic ice and each of them had a Tudor on their wrist. Embodying this spirit of adventure, the Tudor Black Bay Pro has been designed as a tool watch capable of withstanding the harsh elements of the wilds, while tracking both local and home time.
The fixed steel bezel gives the watch an added level of legibility and reliability. (Credit: TUDOR)
Measuring 39mm in stainless steel, every element of the watch was designed to be functional and legible. The crown has been reworked to offer maximum grip and it is also set flush to the middle case band so that the tube is not visible. To boost legibility, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic as compared to the traditional markers that are usually metal with luminescent material filled into its centre. Thanks to the steel outer bezel and the yellow GMT hand contrasted with the black dial the wearer can also easily read the second timezone.
The luminous ceramic offers far better legibility in the dark. (Credit: TUDOR)
Both these GMT watches are powered by the Tudor-developed Calibre MT5652 movement. Demonstrating a unique development process, these movements were built on adaptable architecture capable of incorporating new functions into their manufactured movements, instead of relying on additional modules. What this means is that the GMT function is built into the movement and not a separate add-on. Although this may mean little for the casual wearer, this will make a world of difference to watch purists.
The MT5652 is Chronometer certified by the COSC which allows for a deviation of –4/+6 seconds daily. However, Tudor takes their testing one step further, ensuring each of these watches will perform to a precision level of –2/+4 seconds daily deviation before leaving the manufacture in Switzerland. As for the power reserve, the MT5652 hits the sweet spot of about 70 hours making it weekend-proof. This means that even if you put the watch down on a Friday, it will still be keeping time when you pick it up again on Monday.
Tudor offers fabric straps which are softer and more comfortable than most NATO-inspired fabric straps in the market. (Credit: TUDOR)
Both the Black Bay GMT S&G and the Black Bay Pro are available in 3 strap offerings. A steel and gold on the Black Bay GMT S&G, and steel bracelet on the Black Bay Pro. For a rugged look, the Black Bay GMT S&G is also available with a “Terra di Siena” brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch. The Black Bay Pro with a fabric-like hybrid strap in rubber and black leather with a folding clasp. For comfort on the wrist, both GMTs are available in soft and comfortable straps are woven in France on traditional 19th century Jacquard looms. Tudor fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of the brand, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products.
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