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How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications

Written by: Darren Ho

17 Feb 2026

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

TAG Heuer’s latest releases from LVMH Watch Week 2026 set new milestones in its history and demonstrate why it is widely regarded as an icon in chronograph watches.

The luxury watch industry’s calendar has shifted in recent years with the LVMH Group’s standalone Watch Week taking place in January. This year, the event was hosted in Milan, just ahead of the Winter Olympics in Cortina, Italy. Aligning with the spirit of the sporting event, which was sponsored by Heuer-Leonidas in 1980, TAG Heuer emphasised its savoir faire in developing timing complications throughout its history.

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

Jack Heuer and the microsplit. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

It’s perhaps a nice coincidence that this year marks 40 years of the forming of TAG Heuer, and 30 years since the Carrera collection was revived. Prior to its acquisition by the Techniques d’Avant Garde group, the family-owned watchmaker had become a victim of the Quartz Crisis. As Jack Heuer sold the business off, the Carrera collection he created was also discontinued in 1984. It was only in 1996, as the industry returned to life and collectors clamoured for historic icons, that the brand reissued a run of the first Carrera from 1963. The success of the release led to its full revival. To celebrate this anniversary, the watchmaker debuted its first Carrera watch with a split-seconds or rattrapante chronograph.

The Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph is a discreet but statement-making watch, with an automatic TH81-01 calibre powering this remarkable timepiece. Rattrapantes are also known as lap-timers, with two separate chronograph seconds wheels and hands that can couple and decouple at the push of a button to measure timing differences of up to 60 seconds. The movement was developed with the Vaucher Manufacture in Fleurier and based on the TH81-00 used in the Monaco Split-seconds Chronograph.

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

A close-up of the TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, revealing its skeletonized architecture and precision chronograph display. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

Like the Monaco model, the new Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph has an exposed dial that reveals the movement’s bridges, with a tachymeter bezel ring and minute track on the flange. They sit under the “Glassbox” Carrera’s domed sapphire crystal along with the three subcounters of the chronograph watch. Other releases include the vintage-styled Carrera Timer “Seafarer” and a larger-sized “Glassbox” Carrera and Carrera Day-Date.

Although the Carrera has not featured such a high complication in the past, the collection has had its share of bold announcements. A decade ago, TAG Heuer introduced the Heuer-02T, a high complication movement with a tourbillon and chronograph. Billing itself as the most affordable tourbillon watchmaker at the time, the movement combined the gravity-compensating precision of a one-minute revolving tourbillon with a high-performance chronograph. It was certified to chronometer standards by the COSC, demonstrating the sophistication of its industrial production in achieving a pinnacle of watchmaking.

Industry Lead

Developing an industrial solution to chronograph movements is what made Heuer a leader in the field since 1887. Prior to Heuer’s oscillating pinion, chronograph operations were controlled solely with a column wheel, a small component with a tower-like construction on one end. Think of it as a mechanical on/off switch to couple or decouple the chronograph gears with the timekeeping gear train. However, the precision needed for the column wheel meant it had to be produced by hand. The oscillating pinion’s clutch operation worked similarly and could be machine produced, lowering costs for chronograph production.

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

Introduced in 1916, the Mikrograph was the world’s first stopwatch accurate to 1/100th of a second. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

Even with Heuer’s patented device, innovations in chronograph development progressed slowly over the next two decades. One limitation was power: for a chronograph to clock more precise timing, its escapement had to operate at a higher rate, which consumed more power from the mainspring. A breakthrough by Heuer in 1916 led to the Mikrograph, a stopwatch that was accurate to 1/100th of a second. This translates to a furious 50Hz, or 360,000 vibrations per hour. At that rate, friction and wear and tear become significant over time. The Heuer Mikrograph was key to the success of various international sporting events, including the Olympics during the 1920s. Beyond that, the timing instrument contributed to the advancement of scientific and defence technologies and research.

The Drive to Success

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

Introduced in 1933, the Autavia dashboard timer—named for “automobile” and “aviation”—shown alongside the Hervue eight-day clock. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

Heuer first began to develop dashboard chronographs for cars and planes in 1911, but it was in 1933 that the Autavia Dashboard Timer made it an essential brand for motor racing or piloting. With a power reserve of eight days, it ensured that users avoided timing errors due to performance. Heuer expanded the use of its stopwatches to other activities with a modular-style stopwatch, the Ring-Master, with interchangeable bezels with customised timing designs. In the mid-20th century, the move towards electronic timing devices led Heuer to introduce the Mikrotimer, capable of measuring 1/1000th of a second. This cemented Heuer’s association with the Formula 1 motorsport and with the Scuderia Ferrari team in particular.

With the revival of the Carrera in 1996, TAG Heuer also revived a second pursuit to realise its chronograph achievements on the wristwatch. In the early noughties, with Jean-Christophe Babin at its helm, the watchmaker made its first foray into high watchmaking via several concept watches such as the Monaco V4 and Carrera Calibre 360. The latter was a mechanical wristwatch powered by the calibre TH360, with two escapements and gear trains for timekeeping and chronograph timing. The latter runs at 50Hz, matching the Mikrograph timer from 1916 on a wristwatch movement. This proof-of-concept design incredibly rested on an ETA 2892-2 base movement with a chronograph module by La Joux-Perret.

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 360 Rose Gold, winner of the Sports Watch category at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève in 2006. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

The Carrera Calibre 360 won the sports watch category in the 2006 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, and it signalled an era of innovative movement development at TAG Heuer. Five years later, TAG Heuer launched the Carrera Mikrograph, with a movement that integrated the two escapements in one movement. The dial of the Carrera Mikrograph featured a central sweeping seconds hand on an indicator ring with 100 increments in one rotation, allowing for greater legibility of the precise timer compared with its predecessor. The brand then one-upped itself the following year, releasing the Mikrogirder which has a 1,000Hz linear oscillator that’s capable of measuring up to 1/2000th of a second.

The oscillating system differs from the traditional lever escapement by using a physical beam with an excitatory beam to generate a vibration in the oscillator with a small angle of movement. This enables the increased rate to be achieved, while minimising frictional wear. The energy requirements for the Mikrogirder are immense, and the chronograph only runs for 3.5 minutes before running out of power. These developments were later shared with the LVMH Group and subsequently used in Zenith’s El Primero 21, as TAG Heuer turned its focus to design-led models and innovative materials.

A Return to High Watchmaking

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

TAG Heuer in-house Calibre Heuer 02 movement. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

In the last decade, TAG Heuer has dedicated its resources towards innovation and strengthening its industrial production. To achieve its goals, they hired the former head of watchmaking at Cartier, Carole Forestier-Kasapi to be the Technical Director of the brand. The renowned watchmaker worked with the Kenissi Manufacture to improve its existing Heuer-01 and -02 calibres, as well as the -02T tourbillon movement. Next, she improved the reliability of the Solargraph movement, before putting her focus towards the split-seconds chronograph, the most challenging complication in mechanical watchmaking.

Chronograph movements experience great forces in operation. The coupling process can cause a jumping effect when engaging, and resetting it to zero after stopping or in a flyback reset requires strong dampening to absorb the force of the resetting hand. Furthermore, in horizontally coupled chronographs, the dip in amplitude of the balance can affect timekeeping precision. In a split-seconds chronograph, the rejoining of the two chronograph sweep seconds hands exerts great force while in operation, and even greater when a reset is activated.

How TAG Heuer Came to Be the Definitive Maker of Timing Complications - Cortina Watch Malaysia

TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph Calibre TH81-01. (Credit: TAG Heuer)

The TH81-00 and TH81-01 calibres that drive the Monaco and Carrera Split-seconds Chronographs are based on the Vaucher Manufacture’s Seed VMF 6710, an integrated, high-frequency chronograph movement with automatic winding, and is incredibly compact at just 7mm thick. Its vertical coupling minimises any amplitude dip, and a full balance cock with four inertia blocks make it incredibly resistant to shock. The chronometer-standard chronograph runs at 5Hz, for easy reading of the chronograph in 0.1 second segments. There’s also a one-piece reset hammer to simultaneously reset the heart cams of the chronograph seconds and counters. It utilises all the best practices of famous chronograph movements, from Zenith’s El Primero, to Rolex’s calibre 4130 and the Frédéric Piguet calibre 1185. TAG Heuer’s customisation involves adding the checkered finishing on the base plate of the movement, decorating the oscillating rotor in the style of the brand’s shield logo, among others.

Adding a variation of the TH81 calibre to the Carrera collection and offering it as a non-limited release tells us that the watch is intended to remain in TAG Heuer’s catalogues for some time. Collectors can surely look forward to more special and limited editions, hopefully starting with this year’s F1 Grand Prix programmes.

Discover more exciting creations from TAG Heuer at our boutiques, or online.