Written by: Justin Ng
29 Jan 2026
Since its very beginning, watchmaking has always been about pushing the boundaries. Be it techniques, crafts or collaborations, watchmakers continue to find new ways to enthral collectors, to excite the discerning with groundbreaking mechanisms, wow factors and the latest must-haves.
The exclusivity of luxury watches goes beyond limited and coveted pieces, and into the realms of unique interpretations and aesthetics. Contrary to popular belief, great minds do not think alike. Collaborations ignite creative sparks. Shared ideals and ambitions enable unique watches to crystalise. Established names reference past works with an eye on presenting a fresh interpretation, while independent and boutique brands rely on agility and risk taking to produce never-before-seen watches. After all, they have but a single objective in mind: creating singular watches.
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit (right) is unveiled alongside the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit. (Credit: H. Moser & Cie.)
Two acclaimed independent watch brands join forces to squeeze out a juicy limited collection that whets the appetite of watch collectors. Prolific nominees in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in their own right, H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g reimagine the fruity duo through a unique lens, blending H. Moser & Cie.’s signature minimalism with Studio Underd0g’s vibrant prism. Limited to 100 pieces, each watch brandishes the imprints that have garnered the brands cult followings.
Underneath the minimalist dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit bears the great complexity of a perpetual calendar watch. Every detail is indicative of Haute Horlogerie. Lacquered purple in a sunburst motif, the Maracuja fumé Grand Feu enamel dial is crafted upon an 18-carat yellow gold base with hammered indentations. It features a simplified perpetual calendar layout, a reinterpretation championed by H. Moser & Cie. to improve legibility and repositioned to fit modern times.
A serious watch made approachable, the stripped-down dial following the elimination of letters and numerals is juxtaposed with a transparent case back, revealing H. Moser & Cie.’s award-winning manual-winding HMC 800 Perpetual Calendar movement and its symphony of exemplary hand finishing techniques. Fun, unconventional and energetic, its impactful design brings a breath of fresh air to luxury watches. This is H. Moser & Cie. at its finest.
The Franck Muller Long Island Evolution Master Jumper is the result of an unceasing quest for excellence. (Credit: Franck Muller)
Combining Franck Muller’s watchmaking excellence with design prowess, the Long Island Evolution Master Jumper highlights the collection’s dynamic mechanism and iconic profile.
This avant-garde timepiece showcases a distinctive presentation of Franck Muller’s favourite jumping hour mechanism with expansive leaps. Innovative and mesmerising, time is told through a tripartite display, comprising the pine green-accented jumping hour, minute and date apertures. Its complexity is evident in its openworked manual movement, emphasising the series of numbered disks, exhibited on the case front. The numerals advance by the hour, minute and day, periodically in independence and unison. It is an even more intricate take on the traditional jumping hour.
The case builds upon the original Long Island silhouette with an additional inner bezel to help secure the movement, balancing form and function. Measuring 35.3 x 48.1 mm, the case is made of black PVD treated titanium with a satin finish, while the inner bezel features aluminium anodised in pine green. Exuding mid-century elegance, the architectonic case is unmistakably modern and provides continuity to the thematic palette.
Encapsulating Franck Muller’s style and complications, this unique timepiece is limited to 100 pieces. It was nominated for the 2024 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in the Men’s Complication category, setting a new benchmark in jumping hours.
The Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum Around the World In 80 Days is limited to 360 pieces - a number indicating a full circle. (Credit: Montblanc)
Marrying functionality with wanderlust, the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum Around the World In 80 Days Limited Edition is a watchmaking exegesis inspired by the novel Around the World in Eighty Days. The Jules Verne classic published in 1872 captivates readers young and old, encouraging the intrepid to set out and make their own mark. Filled with intrigues, the story follows Englishman Phileas Fogg and his French valet Passepartout in a race to circumnavigate the globe in just 80 days. On their voyage, they encounter a series of unexpected events that seem to make their endeavour an impossible feat.
A worldtimer enabling the reading of 24 time zones across the globe all at once, this Montblanc creation is crafted with the modern explorer in mind. Fogg’s journey is represented with the 80 gold dashes on a multi-layer dial featuring the Earth viewed from above the North Pole. London, highlighted in gold, is the starting point of their adventure. Precisely displaying the time in a 24-hour scale across the world, the innovative MB 29.20 automatic movement propels the rotation of the map, creating a visually arresting effect.
Faithful to the author’s narrative, the titanium case back features the elephant Kiouni, a 3D laser engraving that lends realism to the timepiece. Accompanied with a backdrop of the Allahabad Fort, a Mongolian steamboat, a Japanese temple and a locomotive, Montblanc transports explorers back in time to the Golden Age of Travel. To top it off, the lining of the alligator-printed blue calfskin leather strap is embossed with Chinese coins and Boteh leaves discovered on the 80-day journey. This worldtimer is more than a watch, it is an invitation to travel.
The BOVET 19Thirty 10th anniversary special edition is the epitome of modern meets classic. (Credit: BOVET)
BOVET’s watchmaking provenance and hallmarks coalesce on the 19Thirty 10th anniversary special edition, marking a decade of the collection launched in 2015. It captures the essence of the Maison’s deep history in making exemplary pocket watches as early as the 1800s.
Available in a trio of exquisite dial selection – blue lacquer, green “in the dusk” lacquer, and black with glitter “queen of trees” lacquer – the commemorative 19Thirty showcases the Maison’s exquisite craftsmanship from case design to movement finishing.
Encased in the distinctive Fleurier case, an ergonomical rounded case evocative of pocket watches featuring bow and crown at 12 o’clock, this new edition merges the past with the present. Classic design and heritage craftsmanship are balanced with contemporary minimalism and cutting-edge watchmaking in a unique exposition of Haute Horlogerie. Thanks to a young workforce where artisans average 35 years of age and the Maison’s rich heritage, the eye-catching dial appeals to young collectors while maintaining BOVET’s identity. A process of extreme precision, the laborious lacquering produces a stunning sheen. The beauty of the dial is enhanced with symmetrical hour, minute and small seconds, while the power reserve indicator travels in an off-centre arc.
The in-house manufacture movement powering this timepiece stands in contrast with the minimalist dial, exhibiting exceptional finishing on par with BOVET’s finest movements on the transparent case back. It boasts 7 days of power reserve from a single barrel, with more than 95% of its components manufactured internally.
A hand-wound watch, the 19Thirty 10th anniversary special edition is an objet d’art reaffirming BOVET‘s commitment to traditional craftsmanship, artistic flair and unparalleled exclusivity.
The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph features the iconic square case synonymous with the Monaco collection. (Credit: TAG Heuer)
A modern homage to a legacy of speed, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph marks TAG Heuer’s return to Haute Horlogerie d’Avant-Garde. Altogether remarkable, this groundbreaking timepiece marries split-seconds chronograph function with extraordinary lightness through the innovative fusion of materials and craftsmanship, creating a stunning contemporary variation of the iconic Monaco.
Made of sapphire and grade-5 titanium, known for its lightness and durability, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph weighs a mere 85 grams. This ultra-technical construction redefines watchmaking engineering, accentuating its exceptional transparency central to the chronograph’s distinctive aesthetics. The eye-opening visual effect extends to the brand-new TH81-00 mechanical split-seconds chronograph calibre, also crafted from grade-5 titanium for enhanced shock resistance.
With this creation, it surpasses other movements within the brand’s catalogue as the lightest automatic chronograph movement ever made. All this was possible thanks to the partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Beyond its exemplary technical finesse, the movement is entirely decorated by hand, sporting TAG Heuer’s signature checkered flag pattern on its bridges. It is a masterpiece bridging artisanal craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology and expert know-how.
The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph represents the pinnacle of TAG Heuer’s family of watches dedicated to motorsport and its own history in shaping the future of watchmaking. It was nominated for the 2024 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in the Chronograph category.
These unique watches push the boundaries of design and technical excellence. Being safe is not an option. Instead, they test the limits of engineering and craftsmanship, setting new standards in horological and artistic pursuits. The true value of these watches lies beyond popularity. To the discerning collector, it is about distinction, innovation and emotion.
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