6 Rules of Success That Kept These Watchmakers Independent

When the current owner and CEO of BOVET, Pascal Raffy, acquired the brand in 2001, BOVET had run through many acquisitions in 40 years. Its name carried prestige but there were few existing products that showcased its historical significance in watchmaking. Raffy understood that BOVET had knowledge buried in its archives, but lacked the people with the skills to unlock that expertise. Therefore, he proceeded to build up the strength of the brand’s human resources by acquiring a high-end movement maker and a precious dial producing manufacture.

Giving the staff access to BOVET’s archival knowledge and the resources to find new ways of achieving old techniques, or improve existing ones, has been instrumental to BOVET’s success. Not only have they revived endangered or lost crafts such as Fleurisanne engraving or miniature painting on mother-of-pearl, they have also taken certain crafts such as skeletonisation, to a level beyond existing standards. The Fleurier Virtuoso XI is what BOVET considers its first skeletonised movement, based on its own definition of the art.

An example is the Vanguard Skeleton Royal Bauxite series of watches, launched at the WPHH event in April. The ultra-light watch case and movement bridges are made from a special aluminium alloy that develops a thick oxide layer which is highly stable and is further sealed to increase its wear resistance. The result is a lightweight watch with a vivid colouring, that does not fade over time. The watchmaker well known for its Colour Dreams and Crazy Colour series has introduced an entire spectrum of Vanguard Skeleton Royal Bauxite references, each evenly monochromatic with a fully exposed FM 1740-VS movement that will run for a whole week.

There are few watchmakers today capable of producing a watch to such specific and classic standards, and to reproduce it over and over without fail. Parmigiani Fleurier’s consistent approach to quality and expertise has earned it strong recognition from the industry and among collectors. Watches such as the Arabic or Xiali perpetual calendars, or the unique objects that celebrate the craft of horology, keep them returning over and over for more.

Chopard also takes a very transparent approach to its cherished causes and values, which it states in a way that invites interest, rather than provoke opposing opinions. It also takes a long-term approach to its work, developing partnerships with Cannes Film Festival and the Mille Miglia race for decades consistently. Its loyal and enduring stance towards what it is passionate about, and offering clarity on its values, are what has made it admired among collectors.

The more exciting part of this continuous gentrification is that it introduces new innovations very quickly, and in a variety of expressions. One example is the textured and enamelled dial that H. Moser & Cie. developed just a few years ago. When enamellers tend to work on dials, they usually emphasise a very even coating of enamel because of how it will melt to become hardened vitreous enamel. Even applications prevent uneven expansion and cracking of the enamel. However, Moser found a way to work with enamel on a textured engraved motif, that also combines its iconic dial aesthetic – the fumé effect with vivid enamel colours, and on a textured white gold dial. Since its first discovery, the colours of this dial have ranged from lime green to midnight blue. It’s definitely worth paying attention to.

Of course, Breitling’s clientele tends to skew towards the outdoorsy, sporty, and aviation-loving. It makes sense that they would be keen in leading personalities in such arenas, from champion surfer Kelly Slater to top soccer player Erling Haaland. The Breitling squad also spans young and old, from iconoclasts such as Bertrand Piccard, to leading man Austin Butler. Everywhere you go, there’s a Breitling ambassador to engage and connect, to develop a personal relationship with. It’s diplomacy with watchmaking.