11 Aug 2025
Explore the unique world of BOVET, from its historical roots tracing back to 1822 and its connection to China, to its modern innovative watches.
Long before the rise of the modern Chinese watch collectors, BOVET had been a revered name in Haute Horlogerie known to have conquered Imperial China. Its reputation for excellent craftsmanship won the hearts of the emperors. Today, BOVET continues to capture the imagination with unique watches, combining traditional craftsmanship and modern innovation.
The side profile of the “writing slope” case as seen on the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. (Credit: BOVET)
BOVET watches are distinctive in so many ways. Since the inception of BOVET, its watches have always been tastefully adorned with gems, pearls, miniature paintings in Grand Feu enamel and engravings. It is a legacy of founder Edouard Bovet who championed decorative techniques. In the centuries that followed, BOVET has turned watchmaking excellence into an art form. The Maison is Haute Horlogerie par excellence.
Take the “writing slope” case as an example. This trademarked case is an innovative approach to case design. It improves legibility by increasing the available space at the top half of the watch, ensuring the dial can be raised and remain visible at an angle, while maintaining the slimness of the bottom half of the watch without inflating the overall dimension or thickness of the watch case. This “writing slope” case also provides the perfect platform for BOVET’s artisans to showcase their artistry and creativity. Often the dome-shaped dial is exquisitely decorated with guilloché or enamel, supported by an in-house movement built entirely to suit the headroom presented by the unique case.
This obsessive focus on craftsmanship goes beyond aesthetics and into other considerations such as ergonomics and intuition, to ensure that BOVET watches don’t only stand out for precision and execution, and that they are comfortable to wear and effortless to operate.
The Amadeo Amadeo Tourbillon features the unique Amadeo mechanism alongside extraordinary Fleurisanne engraving and a hand-painted Madonna and Child portrait upon mother-of-pearl. (Credit: BOVET)
If the distinctive “writing slope” is an evolutionary step in case design, BOVET Amadeo is a revolution that turns watchmaking on its head. An homage to BOVET’s history as a watchmaker, the proprietary Amadeo convertible system creates a contemporary nexus between watches and table clocks. Patented in 2010 after seven years of research and development, this novel yet practical mechanism makes it possible for BOVET timepieces to be worn on either side, be transformed into pocket watches or desk clocks, within seconds without the use of any tool. This system is expertly incorporated into the Fleurier series.
The Amadeo Amadeo Tourbillon, an extraordinary unique piece, encapsulates BOVET’s commitment to artistic craft and watchmaking innovation. It takes a single master engraver at the BOVET atelier over 120 hours and 100 hours to complete the resplendent details on the 18K red gold case and the skeletonised movement. A nod to BOVET’s historical timepieces, Madonna and Child is chosen as the motif for the mother-of-pearl dial, taking more than 120 hours of hand painting to complete. Beyond the decorative techniques, the movement features a patented flying tourbillon with a 7-day power reserve. The hands on the back side of the dial are fitted in reverse and enabled by a patented system to ensure they turn clockwise – a necessity ensuring the timepiece is always correct no matter how it is articulated in the Amadeo convertible system.
The BOVET archival timepiece with Grand Feu enamelling and miniature painting of Lake Leman produced around 1830 resonated with the Chinese audience. (Credit: BOVET)
Although the house of BOVET was officially founded on May 1, 1822 when the family business was registered in London, its foundation was laid much earlier. Edouard Bovet, founder of BOVET, was born in Fleurier, Switzerland to watchmaker father Jean-Frédéric Bovet in 1797. Harbouring the ambition to follow in his father’s footsteps, Edouard became a master watchmaker in his own right. In 1818, he travelled to Canton, now known as Guangzhou, China, leaving London on April 20 aboard the Orwell, a ship belonging to the East India Company. As an employee of Magniac & Co., he found his first bit of success, finding buyers for four watches for a sum of CHF10,000 (exceeding US$1 million in today’s currency).
Canton was the only port city in China at the time where goods were freely exchanged between foreign merchants and the Chinese. Clocks and watches were important imports. Edouard rode the tide and quickly became the star of the watch trade in China. The positive response emboldened him, culminating in him taking the next step in his career: establishing the house of BOVET, five years after arriving in China. Alongside brothers Alphonse and Frederic who were residing in London, and Gustave who remained in Fleurier, the siblings would bring their watches out of Switzerland, via London, and etch them firmly in the minds of the Chinese watch collectors. Emperors of the Qing dynasty were known BOVET watch collectors.
BOVET’s peerless legacy in imperial China continues to be evident today, with the Forbidden City Palace Museum in Beijing housing some of the treasured pieces. Historical records point to BOVET’s influence on watchmaking at large. Apart from having hallmarks bearing Chinese characters, BOVET pioneered matching pocket watches to cater to Chinese preference for pairs. It sold more pocket watches to the Chinese than to the English. Timepieces were crafted specifically for China, and the popular pocket watches were known by the Chinese as “dabajian”, translating to the big eight parts. Typically, the case was made of silver, gold, gilded silver or gilded copper, with the dial featuring elongated Roman numerals or Chinese characters. Decorative motifs also made use of vivid subjects in enamel, often containing Chinese elements. Thanks to its remarkable understanding of the Chinese audience, BOVET had no equal in China.
Well-preserved examples dating as far back as the 1820s crop up at auctions from time to time, commanding staggering prices that fully reflect their rarity and exclusivity. It proves that BOVET watches are collector items the moment they leave the atelier.
The Miss Audrey Sweet Art features a dial festooned with sugar crystals and a Amadeo-fitted case. (Credit: BOVET)
Producing between 800 and 1,200 watches a year, BOVET is a synonym for exclusivity. The Maison counts Fleurier, Dimier and BOVET by Pininfarina as its main collections whilst also offering a bespoke programme for the discerning collectors who demand unique timepieces.
The Fleurier series is a contemporary tribute to pocket watches, showcasing the ingenuity of the Amadeo convertible system. It is complemented with the Dimier series, featuring a contemporary configuration with the crown at 3 o’clock. BOVET by Pininfarina is a collaborative series, where Automobili Pininfarina and BOVET work side by side to create objets d’art based on both houses’ legendary styling and innovation.
Up to a third of all watches handcrafted annually by the Ateliers BOVET are one of a kind. The studio is dedicated to watchmaking technical and artistic excellence, with engraving, miniature painting and watchmaking innovation among its repertoire. Collectors can also personalise each timepiece, from initials, to gem setting, to tailor-made straps for a unique BOVET watch.
The Récital 28 Prowess 1 is a world-time watch unlike any other thanks to its world’s first mechanism. (Credit: BOVET)
BOVET excels at groundbreaking in-house movements and exquisite craftsmanship. From crafting one-of-a-kind watches for the Chinese emperors back in the days, to now producing award-winning timepieces, BOVET continues to raise the bar.
Extraordinary examples exhibited at the Palace Museum included an enamelled caseback depicting a romantic scenery of flowers and doves, contrasted with a white enamelled dial discreetly marked with BOVET and FLEURIER, while another featured an outer caseback enamelled with a natural scene of a pair of swans gliding on water encircled by roses of varying shades, with BOVET in Chinese characters engraved on the inside of the caseback. Past designs like these guided BOVET in its quest to create unique, expressive and spectacular contemporary designs.
At the 2024 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), universally considered the Oscars of watchmaking, the BOVET Récital 28 Prowess 1 won the Mechanical Exceptional Prize for its state-of-the-art mechanisms. The spectacular timepiece features an adjustable world-time complication in the form of multiple rollers, an expanded flying tourbillon with perpetual calendars, and a patented function isolator to shield the perpetual calendar from incorrect manipulation. Taking five years to develop, this world timer is the first mechanical timepiece to overcome the challenges posed by the Daylight Savings Time. Not only is the manufacture movement engraved and finished by hand, it possesses 10 days of power reserve, balancing aesthetics with practicality and innovation.
Furthermore, the BOVET Récital 20 Astérium took home the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize at the 2023 GPHG. It features a realistic re-creation of the night sky, where stars and constellations are produced with laser engraving and Super-LumiNova® coating on domed translucent blue quartz. Despite being complex looking, the timepiece is intuitively designed, housing an annual calendar, a sidereal calendar, retrograde minutes, a hemispherically correct moon phase, equation of time, zodiac signs with solstices and equinoxes, a patented double face flying tourbillon, and 10 days’ worth of power reserve. A single central, also driven by the annual calendar, is all that is needed to display the astronomical information. It performs a complete rotation once every 365.25 days. This unique piece from BOVET combines watchmaking ingenuity with chronometric precision in a trademarked “writing slope” case.
The two successes were joined by other recent GPHG award winners, including the Récital 22 Grand Récital (the Aiguille d’Or in 2018), the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two (the Mechanical Exception Prize in 2020) and the Miss Audrey (Ladies’ Watch Prize in 2020).
Château de Môtiers was once owned by Henri-François Dubois-Bovet and it functions as BOVET atelier today. (Credit: BOVET)
Today, master artisans and watchmakers work under one roof at BOVET’s facilities, ensuring the entire process from start to finish demanded by Haute Horlogerie can be done seamlessly. Under the stewardship of visionary owner Pascal Raffy, BOVET has consolidated its presence at its spiritual home nestled deep in the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry.
In 2006 when Château de Môtiers, once in the hands of the BOVET family, came on to the market, Mr. Raffy jumped at the chance to acquire the symbolic property, allowing BOVET to return to its birthplace. The stately castle became BOVET’s watchmaking and engraving workshops. At the same time, he also acquired Manufacture DIMIER 1738, thus assuming the know-hows to all stages of developing and producing the rarest and most demanding Haute Horlogerie movements. A technical department was also established to develop and supervise each calibre.
By streamlining the structure, BOVET can optimise its watchmaking operation, from product development to logistics, guaranteeing exceptional quality. BOVET’s homecoming is a marriage between provenance and future. It ties the brand’s incredible heritage to great aspirations, keeping ancestral craft alive, engraved, enamelled, painted and set on modern watchmaking innovation.
BOVET’s contemporary watches epitomise the various times in watchmaking history, yet are thoroughly timeless in their appeal, where the line between craftsmanship and innovation is blurred. As an authorised retailer, Cortina Watch is home to a complete range of BOVET timepieces. Get in touch with us today to learn more about its heritage and why BOVET remains a unique name in the world of luxury watches.
Discover more exciting creations from BOVET at our boutiques, or online.