The Zenith Legacy: 160 Years of Precision and Purpose

From founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s original vision to the game-changing El Primero and beyond, discover how Zenith’s obsession with measuring ever-smaller fractions of time has driven horological innovation for over a century and a half.

In the serene mountains of Le Locle, Switzerland, a revolutionary vision took shape in 1865 that would forever transform the watchmaking landscape. As Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary this year, we look back at its remarkable journey defined by innovation, precision, and an uncompromising pursuit of perfection. From its pioneering manufacturing model to groundbreaking movements like the iconic El Primero, Zenith’s story is truly one that embodies the spirit of those who dare to dream bigger.

Birth of a revolutionary vision

Its remarkable story begins in the mid 19th century with Georges Favre-Jacot, who delved into the meticulous world of pivot makers and escapement assemblers at the tender age of nine. By 20, his marriage to Louise-Philippine Jacot-Descombes, also from a watchmaking family, set the stage for what would become a horological empire. Driven by their shared passion and supported by Jacot-Descombes’s dowry, the couple established a workshop on Rue des Billodes in Le Locle in 1865.

What set Favre-Jacot apart from his peers was his innovative approach to watchmaking. While Swiss watchmaking traditionally operated on the établissage model, in which individual artisans crafted specific components in their homes before another specialist assembled the final watch, Favre-Jacot envisioned something radically different.

Inspired by his visits to American factories, he conceived a vertical integration model that would bring all watchmaking skills under one roof. This pioneering approach allowed for unparalleled control over quality, consistency, and innovation. In just a few years, Favre-Jacot’s humble workshop quickly became the largest in the Neuchâtel region, spanning across an astounding area of 9,300 square metres with 18 buildings. By the early 20th century, the manufacture had more than 600 artisans producing 100,000 watches annually.

The manufacture was strategically located near the railway line, facilitating trade and the supply of materials for production and coal for its steam engines. But Favre-Jacot’s vision extended beyond production efficiency. Driven by an unrelenting spirit of innovation, he not only built his own tools and machinery, but also established a stone quarry, foundry, and even a printing press to support the business. In 1886, Favre-Jacot was the first to power a watchmaking factory with electricity, illuminating his workshop and symbolically lighting the path toward horological innovation.

An ambitious quest

The Zenith Legacy: 160 Years of Precision and Purpose - Cortina Watch Malaysia

Favre-Jacot had an audacious vision: to create the perfect watch – an ideal that would chart Zenith’s course for generations. As the story goes, one evening while gazing at the stars, inspiration struck. In the vastness of the cosmos, Favre-Jacot found a name that captured the very essence of his ambition: Zenith. Evoking the highest point in the sky and the pinnacle of achievement, it came to symbolise the brand’s unwavering pursuit of excellence.

In 1897, Favre-Jacot unveiled his first calibre – christened Zenith, of course – before officially adopting the name for his manufacture in 1911. More than a brand, it marked the beginning of a remarkable journey toward horological perfection that still defines the maison today.

However, creating the perfect watch wasn’t about technical prowess, but also aesthetic refinement. From the beginning, Zenith distinguished itself with the elegance of its collections, striking a balance between mechanical precision and timeless beauty. It embraced artistic influences, collaborating with Art Nouveau masters of the time, such as Alphonse Mucha, René Lalique, and Alphonse Laverrière.

The world soon recognised this never-before-seen marriage of avant-garde design and science. At the 1900 Paris Exposition, amid the latest technological innovations, Zenith received a Grand Prix for the technical and aesthetic excellence of its watches. The Fédération Horlogère Suisse praised Zenith’s “avant-garde artistry, paving the way for a new era in watch decoration”.

Setting records in precision

Zenith’s quest for chronometric excellence represents one of the most impressive chapters in watchmaking history. Beginning in 1897, it participated in prestigious chronometry competitions organised by observatories, which were proving grounds where the top watchmakers competed to demonstrate their technical mastery and prowess.

Winning an astonishing 2,333 chronometry awards, including several absolute records, Zenith established itself as the most decorated watchmaking maison in history. This success validated Favre-Jacot’s pioneering manufacturing system and his pursuit of perfection. The maison’s reputation for precision was so respected that among the five precision regulators used by the Neuchâtel Observatory to set reference time, two bore the Zenith name.

The mid 20th century marked the golden age of chronometry competitions, with Zenith reaching new heights with the development of the calibre 135-O. Designed specifically for these events, this exceptional movement earned 235 awards and set an unprecedented record of five consecutive first prizes in the wristwatch category at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954 – a feat never matched before or since.

The El Primero revolution

In the 1960s, Zenith embarked on its most ambitious endeavour yet: to create the world’s first automatic chronograph. True to its pioneering ethos, the goal was not just for innovation but excellence – developing an integrated high-frequency chronograph movement that would set new standards in precision and performance.

After years of development, the legendary El Primero calibre was finally unveiled on 10 January 1969. Oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour (5Hz), this cutting-edge automatic movement with 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters could measure time with unprecedented precision to 1/10th of a second. Comprising 282 components despite being only 6.5mm thin, it also boasted a generous 50-hour power reserve and was assembled on the first modern production lines.

Today, more than 50 years after its debut, the El Primero remains an icon among chronograph movements. But behind its enduring legacy lies a remarkable story of quiet heroism. In the 1970s, as the quartz crisis shook the Swiss watch industry and cast doubt on the future of mechanical watchmaking, Zenith was forced to halt production of the movement. It was a time when tradition seemed destined to give way to electronic efficiency, but one man refused to let history be erased. Charles Vermot, the watchmaker overseeing the El Primero workshop, defied orders to dismantle the production line and sell the specialised tools and metal presses as scrap. He spent nights secretly stashing all the movement’s technical plans and over 150 stamping tools in the attic of the Le Locle manufacture.

Thanks to Vermot’s foresight and courageous act, Zenith was able to restart production of the El Primero less than a decade later. The movement’s legendary status was cemented in 1988, when Rolex adopted it to power its automatic Daytona models.

Zenith’s innovative spirit continues to thrive in the 21st century. In 2017, the Defy El Primero 21 shattered records with its ability to measure 1/100th of a second. Two years later, the reimagined El Primero 3600 calibre debuted in the Chronomaster Sport, which featured a chronograph hand that completes a full rotation in 10 seconds for instantaneous readings to the nearest tenth of a second.

Preserving heritage, embracing the future

Central to Zenith’s enduring success is its commitment to heritage. The maison’s archives contain over one kilometre of documents, as well as countless plans and tools, so that it can maintain, repair, restore and reproduce its timepieces when necessary.

Recognised as part of a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Zenith manufacture in Le Locle remains a living testament to Favre-Jacot’s original vision. Today, over 60 crafts and disciplines, from watchmaking to engineering and micro-mechanics, are practiced under one roof.

The latest 2025 launches

As Zenith celebrates its milestone 160th anniversary in 2025, the maison remains steadfast in its commitment to pushing horology’s boundaries, unveiling an impressive array of novelties that honour its rich heritage, while showcasing its innovative spirit.

Chronomaster Sport Rainbow

The year started with a bang at LVMH Watch Week, where Zenith added a burst of colour to its high-frequency chronograph family with the exuberant Chronomaster Sport Rainbow. This spectacular 41mm white gold timepiece flaunts a bezel beautifully set with a colourful palette of 40 baguette-cut sapphires punctuated with 10 baguette-cut diamonds indicating each 10-second mark.

The black lacquered dial showcases Zenith’s signature 3-6-9 tricolour chronograph counters, while the multicolour palette extends to sapphire hour markers that mirror the hues of the rainbow bezel. For optimal legibility in low-light conditions, the faceted hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova.

Beneath the playful exterior lies the powerhouse El Primero 3600 calibre, with its 1/10th of a second chronograph, 5Hz frequency, and 60-hour power reserve. The sapphire caseback reveals the intricate movement with its distinctive five-pointed star-shaped oscillating weight. Water-resistant to 100 metres and mounted on a polished white gold bracelet, this 160-piece limited edition is as technically impressive as it is visually striking.

Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

Alongside the kaleidoscopic reference, Zenith also unveiled the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, which is a bold fusion of technical mastery and contemporary aesthetics. Offered in two striking versions of black and blue, this architectural model features a 42mm brushed, octagonal stainless steel case with a 12-facet bezel.

The openworked dial is defined by geometric cut-outs inspired by Zenith’s iconic 1960s double-Z logo, framing three grey azuré subdials for small seconds, a 60-minute, and 60-second counter. Legibility is optimised through rhodium-plated hands and hour markers enhanced by Super-LumiNova.

An interchangeable strap system allows for effortless transition between an integrated stainless-steel bracelet and rubber strap matching the movement’s colour, making the watch a perfect choice for the modern watch enthusiast who wants function and style.

G.F.J

At Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 in April, Zenith celebrated its 160th anniversary with a remarkable tribute to its chronometric heritage: the G.F.J., a limited edition that revives the legendary calibre 135. Originally designed in the 1950s for observatory trials, the calibre was one of the most awarded movements in precision competitions. Now reinterpreted for contemporary collectors, it beats at 2.5Hz, boasts a generous 72-hour power reserve and is COSC certified for chronometric accuracy. This contemporary iteration has also been engineered with new materials and features, including a stop-seconds mechanism and a Breguet overcoil, preserving its legacy while enhancing performance.

Encased in a refined 39.15mm platinum case, the G.F.J. is a perfect balance of heritage and sophistication. Its stepped bezel, sculpted lugs, and notched crown engraved with G.F.J. pay homage to Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot’s legacy. Beneath the sapphire glass box, the dial reveals a rich, three-part design: an outer ring decorated with a brick guilloché pattern inspired by the iconic red-and-white façade of Zenith’s manufacture, a deep-blue lapis lazuli centre flecked with pyrite, and a lustrous mother-of-pearl subdial at six o’clock that elegantly displays running seconds.

Delivered with three interchangeable leather strap options, connoisseurs can also request for an optional seven-row platinum bracelet with centre links embossed with a brick motif. Limited to 160 pieces, the G.F.J. honours Zenith’s pioneering past, while reaffirming its mastery in chronometry.

Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition

Favre-Jacot filed a trademark for the French term Pilote as early as 1888 and for the English term Pilot in 1904. Zenith soon became a prominent manufacturer of pilot watches and dashboard instruments, with its timepieces accompanying remarkable individuals who achieved the impossible, including Louis Blériot, the first person to fly across the English Channel in 1909.

To celebrate Zenith’s longstanding ties with aviation, the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary Edition channels both the pioneering spirit of early aviators and modern design flair. Its 42.5mm micro-blasted ceramic case is accented by a titanium crown and rectangular pushers, while its corrugated dial features oversized luminescent Arabic numerals and hands for optimal readability in a nod to Zenith’s historic pilot instruments.

At the heart of this bold timepiece is the El Primero 3652 calibre, a high-frequency automatic chronograph movement that incorporates a big date and a flyback function. The patented date-change mechanism completes its cycle in just 0.007 seconds, while the flyback function allows the chronograph to reset and restart with a single press, which is ideal for pilots calculating split times mid-flight. A sapphire caseback reveals the movement’s finishing and a rotor engraved with the 160th Anniversary emblem. The watch includes two straps: a blue cordura effect rubber strap and white cordura effect strap, which can be changed easily with a user-friendly system that enables quick and tool-free swapping.

Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition

This tribute model stands at the crossroads of Zenith’s vintage design codes and its modern horological innovation. Housed in a sharply faceted 42mm case made entirely of blue ceramic, a first for the Skyline Chronograph, the watch channels the architectural boldness of the original 1969 Defy. The vivid, monochromatic blue theme extends to the matching three-link ceramic bracelet and the dial, which is etched with a repeating geometric star pattern referencing Zenith’s emblem.

Driving the timepiece is the high-frequency El Primero 3600 movement, capable of measuring 1/10th of a second with unmatched clarity. Its central chronograph hand makes a full rotation every 10 seconds (six times faster than the standard chronograph), while a stop-seconds mechanism allows precise time-setting, The movement’s openworked rotor, inscribed with 160th Anniversary, can be admired via the sapphire display caseback. With a simple push of a button, Zenith’s easy-change strap system allows quick swaps between the blue ceramic bracelet and an accompanying blue, star-patterned rubber strap with a steel folding clasp.

Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition

Exemplifying Zenith’s mastery of the modern chronograph, the Chronomaster Sport 160th Anniversary Edition’s 41mm case balances sportiness with elegance and is highlighted by pump-style pushers, faceted lugs, and alternating polished and brushed surfaces. Its radiant blue lacquered dial is accented with Zenith’s signature tricolour overlapping counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, while red-tipped chronograph hands add a splash of contrast.

Like the previous anniversary edition, this watch is also powered by the El Primero 3600 calibre – a thoroughly modernised descendant of Zenith’s famed 1969 high-frequency movement. Through the exhibition caseback, enthusiasts can view the column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture, as well as the openworked rotor bearing the commemorative 160th Anniversary engraving. Delivered with a blue ceramic bracelet with matching clasp and a blue rubber strap with a steel folding buckle, this reference merges cutting-edge performance with enduring style.

Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

Zenith continues its celebration of high-frequency mastery with its latest launch – the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in a precious new rose gold version with a sleek black dial. First reintroduced in steel in early 2024, this sophisticated timepiece fuses the classic triple calendar complication with Zenith’s iconic El Primero chronograph layout. Housed in a compact 38mm case inspired by the legendary A386 model from 1969, the watch maintains vintage proportions with a raised box sapphire crystal, pump-style pushers, and elegantly tapered lugs.

While the El Primero movement is celebrated for its chronograph capabilities, few know that it was originally developed to support triple calendar and moon phase complications. That vision returns in full glory with a modern twist: the El Primero 3610 calibre, which delivers 1/10th-of-a-second chronograph precision thanks to its high 5Hz frequency. The chronograph hand completes one revolution every 10 seconds, while the full calendar functionality includes day and month apertures positioned symmetrically above the chronograph counters at 11 o’clock and 2 o’clock, a date between 4 and 5 o’clock, and a moonphase embedded within the minute counter at 6 o’clock – all intuitively laid out.