Patek Philippe Celebrates the Nautilus’ 50th Anniversary with an Elegant Limited-Edition Collection

The most prominent (yet smallest of the four models) is the Ref. 5610/1P-001 Nautilus in platinum. Sized at 38mm, it pays tribute not to the original Ref. 3700, which was 42mm measured diagonally, but to the Ref. 3800 released in 1981. This was the reference which raised the popularity of the Nautilus to the general public, and it is a curiosity to observe that same trend return today. The Ref. 3800 was not just a sized-down version of the Ref. 3700; the shaping of the case was proportional in every way, which required more work in machining slimmer parts and was equipped with its in-house Caliber 335 S C (later updated to the Caliber 310 S C). It is the longest-lived reference in the Nautilus family, remaining for nearly half of the collection’s lifetime.

Platinum Nautilus models have been around since 2019; they were introduced just before Ref. 5811 was introduced and are set with baguette-cut precious stones on the bezel and hour indexes. The Ref. 5610/1P-001 has subtle differences from the Ref. 5711/110P-001 – it uses the current two-part case construction which has a slimmer profile, and therefore Patek Philippe has set the diamond that denotes its platinum models on the left “ear” or hinge of the case. The dial is in a sunburst blue without a black gradient rim, and it emphasises a subtle design effect of the Nautilus’ dial. The careful positioning of the indexes creates a mirage of a two-part embossed dial – a mental trick of the mind trying to fill in the negative space.

The Nautilus’ embossed dial kicked off Patek Philippe’s development in new designs, styles, and mixing select handcrafts with embossing to elevate its watches. The carbon, “Shantung silk”, and wave motifs that are used across its collections are the result. Novelties from this year such as the Ref. 5840P-001 Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, the Ref. 7047G-001 Minute Repeater, and Ref. 4946G-001 highlight the dynamism of its dialcraft today.

An anniversary tribute to the original Nautilus, the Patek Philippe Refs. 5810/1G-001 and 5810G-001 show how the Nautilus has stayed the same, and how it has evolved. The two new gold models are still slightly smaller than the “Jumbo”, and have a slimmer profile at 6.9mm compared with the original (7.6mm). Another distinction is the case material – the Ref. 3700/1 was famously advertised as “one of the world’s costliest watches that is made of steel”. The anniversary models are in gold or platinum, and most of the current collection are housed in precious metals.

One of the most visible shifts in the Nautilus collection is the adoption of composite straps. Originally introduced in the Aquanaut, the composite strap has now permeated across Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Along with calf leather and patterned straps, the composite strap embodies the way watches are worn and style is perceived today. It aligns with the Nautilus’ origins as a luxury sportswatch, intended to appeal to the jetset as a timepiece that could follow them from Gstaad to Wall Street. The fabric pattern of the Ref. 5810G-001’s strap resembles sailcloth, a reference to the design and inspiration of the collection.

The unexpected addition to the anniversary collection is the Ref. 958G-001 Nautilus Desk Clock, which follows the watchmaker’s creation of the Ref. 27000M-001 Complicated Desk Clock with Rare Handcrafts last year. The Ref. 958G-001 is a hefty device with a day and date calendar module, power reserve indication, and baguette-cut diamonds as hour indexes. It’s equipped with the Caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, which handles all of the operations autonomously over eight days. This is a greater challenge than a wristwatch, since the desk clock has heftier components which may impact timekeeping differently. For collectors who have a strong affinity with the design of the Nautilus, it’s an opportunity to immerse in the details of every angle and chamfer, perfectly polished and brushed.

For those visiting Geneva in the summer, on later in October the way to the Grand Exhibition in Milan, you may wish to drop by the Patek Philippe Museum to discover more about the Nautilus’ history. Beyond the tale of Gérald Genta’s opportune meeting with the late Mr. Philippe Stern, the Nautilus has had an incredible influence on watch collecting in general.