01 Apr 2025
From April 5 to 26 2025, the public and connoisseurs have the chance to discover, in the historic building in the Rue du Rhône, the new Patek Philippe “Rare Handcrafts 2025” collection, a rich array of timepieces combining technical prowess with unlimited inventiveness. Live demonstrations by artisan engravers and enamellers marquetry makers will be a feature of the event.
Since the earliest days of mechanical horology, artisans have devoted great care to decorating timepieces –and watches were beautifully fashioned works of art well before proving themselves reliable and accurate instruments. As heir to a great Genevan tradition, Patek Philippe has always been intent on preserving and advancing the artistic crafts associated with the embellishment of timepieces. And so it is that every year the manufacture unveils a new collection of unique pieces and limited editions that constantly push back the frontiers of what is possible and draw on ever more varied sources of inspiration.
The “Rare Handcrafts 2025” collection (a total of 78 pieces, comprising 23 dome table clocks and small dome table clocks, 1 desk clock, 10 pocket watches and 44 Calatrava and Golden Ellipse wristwatches) once again calls into play a vast range of outstanding skills, including Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, miniature painting on enamel, grisaille enamel, flinqué enamel, paillonné enamel, Fauré enamel, hand engraving, hand-executed guilloché work and gemsetting), raised to new heights of excellence. Patek Philippe also showcases several techniques that are innovating in horology, such as Longwy enamel on faience and wood micromarquetry – the latter gracing a dome table clock for the first time. And not forgetting the growing number of what are known as “mixed techniques” pieces, uniting, for example, cloisonné enamel and paillonné enamel, or miniature painting on enamel and hand engraving.
As regards themes, the “Rare Handcrafts 2025” collection is again extraordinarily rich in creativity, with a broad palette of subjects embracing the cultures and landscapes of every continent.
These 78 pieces with their ever-more original and astonishing decorations are presented to great effect in an elegant, specially devised decor divided into three areas.
Visitors are greeted in the central area by an extraordinary new group of twelve Calatrava wristwatches, their bezels adorned with Clous de Paris or hobnail guilloché work and their dials with grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges, Grand Feu cloisonné enamel and paillonné enamel representing the constellations associated with the different signs of the zodiac. These decorations, drawn from ancient engravings but interpreted in a decidedly modern style with a fascinating sense of depth, are proposed in twelve limited editions of two watches each, grouped according to the four elements – for example with Virgo (5177G-043) for earth, Sagittarius (5177G-046) for fire, Aquarius (5177G-048) for air and Pisces (5177G-049) for water.
The salon overlooking the lake, with a splendid view of Geneva harbor, brings together the pieces celebrating the beauties of nature –flora, fauna, landscapes –in very refined decorations.
The Rare Handcrafts 2025 collection again gives an important place to birds, notably on the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/50J-011 Yellow-Crested Cockatoo, its dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel, and on the Calatrava wristwatches 5077/100R-071 “White Swan” and 5738/50G-029 “Bald Eagle”, depicted with great finesse in wood marquetry, enriched with gold leaf for the swan. This gallery of portraits of our feathered friends includes two limited editions of Calatrava wristwatches featuring a highly original adornment of hand-engraved feathers beneath translucent enamel, and three dome table clocks in cloisonné enamel or Longwy enamel on faience portraying birds in their natural environment.
The plant world and its amazing repertory of shapes and colors inspired an entire group of dome table clocks and small dome table clock representing a variety of techniques (cloisonné enamel; Longwy enamel on faience; paillonné and gemset Fauré enamel, grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges), with decorations ranging from the natural charm of wildflowers –poppies, ox-eye daisies, cornflowers – to floral motifs of Japanese or Indian inspiration.
The landscapes of southern France claim the limelight on pocket watch 992/183G-001 “Provence”, in cloisonné and flinqué enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel and a setting of orange sapphires, accompanied by an exclusive, handcrafted stand, adorned with lavender in charoite crystal and a hand-engraved bee in yellow gold. Provence also unfurls its lavender fields, its vines and its olive groves on three Calatrava wristwatches with dials in cloisonné enamel in the manner of Van Gogh.
A large display case recreates all the enchantment of the Amazon – a notable example being the dome table clock 20188M-001 “Amazon Rainforest” in cloisonné enamel requiring 17.46 m of gold wire, shaped by hand, and an extraordinary palette of translucent, opaque and opalescent enamels in 59 colors. Two Golden Ellipse wristwatches, including Reference 5738/150G-001 “Blue Leaves and White Gold”, in cloisonné enamel over silver leaf (paillonné enamel), pay tribute to the color of the dial in 18K Or Bleu® (blue gold) of the first Golden Ellipse model of 1968. These two watches are also the first Golden Ellipse Rare Handcrafts models endowed with an exclusive chain-style bracelet in white gold or rose gold. One Golden Ellipse wristwatch gives center stage to a Burmese albino python in miniature painting on enamel, on a background of leaves in hand-executed guilloché work coated with translucent enamel (flinqué enamel). This 2025 collection also innovates with three limited editions of Calatrava wristwatches in cloisonné enamel presenting species of parrots native to various continents, the bezels set with gems according to the colors of the plumage –such as Reference 5077/212G-001 “Macaw on a Blue Ground”, embellished with topazes, blue sapphires, yellow sapphires and diamonds. In a magnificent example of mixed techniques, a pocket watch combines hand engraving and miniature painting on enamel to honor the supreme elegance of a jaguar.
The Golden Ellipse wristwatches 5738/50G-030 “Stag in the Mist” and 5738/50G-034 “Bear in the Mist” conjure up all the mystical atmosphere of a forest, with the silhouettes of its inhabitants emerging in black on white in grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges. The pocket watch 992/138G-001 “Zhangjiajie National Forest Park” recreates the grandiose landscape of China’s premier national park, on a dial in miniature painting on enamel, hand engraving and flinqué enameling. Two dome table clocks in cloisonné enamel present, respectively, the seasonal bell of the stag; and a forest of silver birch in autumn.
The salon facing the rue du Rhône honors legendary examples of human endeavor (painting, music, literature, architecture, traditions, sports), by varying and combining techniques with complete freedom.
A large display case groups pieces arising from highly diverse sources of inspiration. The dome table clock 20191M-001 “Skiing in Days Gone By” in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel brings back a golden age of alpine tourism and Swiss graphic design. Reference 21000M-001 “Geneva Harbor”, the first dome table clock to be adorned with wood marquetry, combines 2,191 tiny veneer parts, representing 41 species of wood of different colors, textures and veining. The dial of Minute Repeater wristwatch 5278/500G-001 “Horse” is adorned with a hand-engraved applied ornament in white gold inspired by the “Chunar horses” of Indian origin, while the bezel and prong buckle are hand engraved with a motif recalling a horse’s braided mane. Pocket watch 984/101J-001 “Eagle and Wolf” inspired by early-twentieth-century English book illustrations of animals and nature combines hand engraving and miniature painting on enamel on its two covers. After “Geneva in Older Times” in 2024, three Golden Ellipse wristwatches depicting “The London of Yesteryear” reinterpret, in miniature painting on enamel, old postcards in sepia tones. Watchmaking itself is the theme on the Golden Ellipse wristwatch 5738/50G-033 “Horological Gear Trains”, with its dial in cloisonné enamel and grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges paying homage to the famous caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement. In another nod to the manufacture’s remarkable heritage, the dome table clock Reference 20187M-001 “The Patek Waltz” in cloisonné and paillonné enamel embellished with hand engraving draws inspiration from the score of a piece of music composed in 1907 in honor of the faithful Brazilian retail firm of Gondolo & Labouriau.
A group of three pocket watches in miniature painting on enamel illustrates all the difficulty of interpreting masterpieces in the confined space of a round watch dial and all Patek Philippe’s prowess in this respect –whether the subject be a work by the Genevan painter Louis Baudit (1870–1960) “Lake Geneva Barque”, on Reference 992/187G-001; a seventeenth-century Dutch still life “Flowers and Insects”, on Reference 992/188G-001; or a canvas by the famous painter Canaletto (1697–1768), on Reference 992/160G-001 “Rialto Bridge”, a jewel of mixed techniques with the border of the case back, the bezel and the bow hand engraved with a floral frieze, by the technique of line engraving.
Two authors of major historical importance represent literature: Jules Verne and Cervantes. The dome table clock 20171M-001 “Nautilus” in cloisonné enamel and grisaille enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel drew inspiration from the famous adventure novel “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Seas”. The French author also occupies the place of honor on three Calatrava wristwatches in cloisonné enamel illustrating scenes from other novels, such as Reference 5086R-001 “Five Weeks in a Balloon”, with the famous episode of the Victoria being towed by an elephant, and a new bezel decoration recalling the author’s technological universe. Meanwhile, the Spanish author Cervantes is honored on two pocket watches portraying Don Quixote charging at windmills, in two different color palettes, one representing daytime, the other, night.
The “Rare Handcrafts 2025” collection pays a splendid tribute to the ancestral art of wine-growing, with six works featuring highly refined decorations. The Calatrava “Clous de Paris” models 5177G-050 & 5177G-051 “Vineyards and Chateaux” highlight the prestige of the great French wine-growing estates of Burgundy and the Bordeaux region. The Calatravas 5077/100J-001, 5077/100R-066 & 5177G-052 “Vines and Wines” celebrate the infinite shades and nuances of color found in white, rosé and red wines, on dials in flinqué enamel with hand-engraved sapphire crystals, a new form of decoration in our Rare Handcrafts collections. The Golden Ellipse 5738/50G032 “Dézaley Chemin de fer” unites cloisonné enamel, miniature painting on enamel and grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges in a decor inspired by a wine label from Lavaux, in Switzerland.
Music and other entertainments also feature, on three dome table clocks and a pocket watch celebrating swing and jazz, as well as vintage funfairs and Central Park in New York.
This vast display of timepieces is completed by the entirely new desk clock with perpetual calendar and weekly calendar 27000M-001, joining the current collection this spring, endowed with a cabinet in 925 sterling silver enriched with panels in green Grand Feu flinqué enamel with a swirling guilloché motif.
The exhibition at the Patek Philippe Salons also enables the public to see artisans at work, applying some of their techniques (hand engraving, enameling, marquetry, hand-executed guilloché). Video films and a choice of tools related to several of the Rare Handcrafts will also illustrate these precious skills.
The “Rare Handcrafts 2025” exhibition is open to the public from April 5 to 26 2025 in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva at 41 rue du Rhône, every day (except Sunday), from 11.00 to 18.00 (last entry 17.00). Visitors are invited to register online beforehand on the site patek.com.
This event is a unique occasion to admire all the exceptional pieces before they join private collections around the world.