Watches and Wonders 2025: H. Moser & Cie. New Releases

An absolute classic in watchmaking, the three-hand watch demands impeccable technical mastery, where every detail counts. To stand out, the aesthetics must attain perfection, achieving a perfect balance: immaculate proportions, harmonious forms, high-end finishes. With the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel model, H. Moser & Cie. has turned this timeless elegance on its head by adding a daring touch: a dial that radiates an unprecedented depth of colour, produced using a reinvented enamelling technique. True to its unique approach, the Manufacture has revisited the ancestral art of “Grand Feu” enamelling to bring it in line with contemporary tastes, thereby preserving this precious technique while reinterpreting it in its own way. The process begins with a white gold base on which a textured motif is engraved, creating a hammered effect. Then six enamel pigments, all in different colours, are carefully washed and finely crushed before being meticulously applied in a gradation to create the dial’s bright hue. The master enameller spends hours adjusting each shade with extreme precision, ensuring the colours blend harmoniously together during successive firings, with no pixelation. A dial must be fired multiple times to create H. Moser & Cie.’s unique signature fumé effect. The result is striking: an intense depth, a texture enhanced by the transparency of the “Grand Feu” enamel, and a fascinating colour, called Purple Haze, which is particularly difficult to achieve.

Behind its apparent understatement, the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel embodies uninhibited refinement. Far removed from convention, it focuses on absolute purity: no logo, no indices, just pure chromatic intensity; a weightless flying tourbillon, and a dial that mesmerises with its depth, in a new colour named, simply, Turquoise. Expert craftsmen follow a meticulous process to obtain this unique shade: a white gold base is engraved with a hammered motif before being covered with several successive layers of translucent enamel, applied by hand with extreme precision. Three different pigments are used to create the famous fumé gradient effect that has become the signature of H. Moser & Cie. Each kiln firing fuses the pigments without ever altering their intensity. The result is a luminous gradient, oscillating between depth and transparency.

There are artists who, driven by a unique inspiration, express their vision through a singular chromatic palette: we talk about a blue period, a red period. H. Moser & Cie., known for its minimalist philosophy and fumé dials, is following in this artistic tradition with the Pop collection. In the past, the Schaffhausen manufacturer has often proposed bold colours, but always with a monochromatic approach. This ephemeral collection dares to use totally unexpected combinations in a veritable explosion of colours and materials. Just as it boldly revisited the art of enamelling in a refined, contemporary approach, H. Moser & Cie. brings to life watches that dare, that raise a smile, that light-heartedly transcend the sometimes overly classical aesthetic codes of Haute Horlogerie.

Like the rarest works of art, this exceptional collection will be available only fleetingly. Produced in an exclusive series, it comprises 28 pieces per colour for the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept models, 8 pieces for the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept models, and a single Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept model. Their rarity further accentuates the precious uniqueness of each piece.

With the Pop collection, H. Moser & Cie. once again demonstrates that minimalism is an infinite form of expression, capable of reinventing itself and defying convention. An invitation to rediscover gemstones and colour from a new angle, at the crossroads of watchmaking and art, and to appreciate the historic skills of the lapidary’s art in a whole new way.

True to form, H. Moser & Cie. focuses on the essentials. The Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic  retains its refined aesthetic and the minimalism of the central display; the piece is adorned with a subtle texture, the result of patient hand-engraving followed by stamping on the brass plates to obtain a frosted finish that is both luminous and vibrant. A tinted lacquer is then applied in vivid shades of colour: the deep, enchanting Midnight Blue for the 5N red gold model, and the intense, hypnotic Matrix Green for the steel model. True masterpieces in relief, these dials resemble “tableaux vivants”, their frosted texture catching the light and releasing it in an explosion of reflections. At just the right angle, they glisten like snow in the sunlight, radiating ever-changing sparkles. A hypnotic spectacle, in which every tiny variation in light reveals a new facet of the pattern. To preserve this visual purity, the H. Moser & Cie. logo is discreetly applied in transparent lacquer like a secret signature, respecting the harmony of the dial without disrupting its balance.