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The Open Heart Watch: A Window to Mechanical Artistry

Written by: Justin Ng

13 Feb 2026

The Open Heart Watch: A Window to Mechanical Artistry - Cortina Watch Malaysia

Increasingly favoured by watch collectors for its distinctive looks and popular among watch brands as a medium to showcase their savoir-faire, the open heart watch has become one of the hottest styles in recent years.

The Open Heart Watch Highlights Its Dial and Movement

Recognisable for its unique cut-out dial, the open heart watch steals the heart of a watch lover with its romantic notions. A bridge between standard and skeleton watches, the open heart watch offers the wearer a glimpse of its mechanical quintessence.

The definitive feature of an open heart watch lies in the partial removal of the dial to reveal some but not all of its inner mechanics. In other words, part of the movement is visible through the cutaway while the better part of the dial is still retained. This interpretation creates intrigue and tension, drawing collectors to discover more of the open heart watch’s inner workings, yet still possessing the essence of a regular watch lavished with a decorative dial.

A bridge between the dial-fitted and the openworked or skeleton watches, the open heart watch preserves the exquisite finishing of the dial and surgically reveals the sophisticated architecture of the movement. It strikes the fine balance between mechanism and artistry, unearthing another dimension to horological aesthetics. Where the movement is often laid bare completely by the transparent caseback on a regular watch, on the open heart watch, only the most dynamic organ of the movement is selectively showcased on the casefront.

Aesthetic and technical appreciation come as one without favouring one over the other on the open heart watch. The spotlight falls on the shared platform – the front of the watch – drawing attention to both the movement and the dial.

 

How Does an Open Heart Watch Work?

The Open Heart Watch: A Window to Mechanical Artistry - Cortina Watch Malaysia

The Zenith Chronomaster Open possesses a partially open dial to reveal the beating heart of the movement. (Credit: Zenith)

While there is no rulebook on what a watchmaker should showcase on an open heart watch, the objective is to yield intrigue and draw attention. Collectors are naturally drawn towards the dynamics of a movement.

Components that palpitate inside the movement include the regulating organ like the balance wheel and the escapement. Acting as a micro-pendulum, the balance wheel oscillates to a set cadence, hypnotising those who lay eyes on it, while the escapement delivers periodic impulses to propel and pause the movement at regular intervals. Together they transmit the conviction that the open heart watch is unquestionably mechanical. This encourages watchmakers to open up the normally hidden mechanism to newfound appreciation.

In haute horlogerie, the same principle is remade into something remarkable. This is especially evident in the tourbillon, frequently the subject of fascination in luxury open heart watches. The tourbillon is a specific mechanism incorporating the balance wheel, hairspring and escapement on a rotating cage, innovated as early as 1795 and constantly improved since, to neutralise the nefarious effect that gravity exerts on timekeeping and precision. Its composition remains relevant and challenging even to this day. Countless watchmakers continue to practise on perfecting the tourbillon as a technical pursuit. It is no surprise that watchmakers are keen to display their own take of the tourbillon on their open heart watches.

What is the Difference Between Open Heart, Openworked and Skeleton Watches?

The Open Heart Watch: A Window to Mechanical Artistry - Cortina Watch Malaysia

As evident with its see-through aesthetic, the Cartier Santos-Dumont Micro-Rotor is an archetypal skeleton watch. (Credit: Cartier)

While the open heart watch is immediately apparent, the difference between skeleton and openworked watches is subtler and lies in the gravity of the skeletonisation involved.

Skeleton watches captivate and revel in transparency. They feature a purposeful design that removes all of the superficial elements such as the dial and the movement’s mainplate in this unique, hollow interpretation but which are otherwise essential to a regular watch, in order to present a minimalist aesthetic that allows maximum amount of light to permeate and pass through. This is achieved by removing the excess materials and assembling the components around the movement’s bridges, creating an illusion as though the movement is suspended within the case. In essence, the skeleton rather than the shell.

A perfect opportunity to showcase extraordinary craftsmanship, watchmakers give each component delicate finishing. Bridges are engraved, chamfered and polished extensively, inviting the wearer to examine and admire the intense effort put into realising a skeleton watch.

The Open Heart Watch: A Window to Mechanical Artistry - Cortina Watch Malaysia

The Récital 12 is BOVET’s first-ever watch arrayed with a metal bracelet, perfectly complementing its openworked architecture. (Credit: BOVET)

On the other hand, the degree of skeletonisation and transparency is toned down on an openworked watch. It features a dial-free casefront and an exposed movement to reveal the mesmerising mechanisms underneath, akin to a skyscraper having its façade peeled back to reveal its steel trusses and concrete columns.

This revelatory interpretation elevates the inner workings of the movement to the surface, shedding new light on the watch’s mechanical beauty and artistry while preserving, by and large, the existing architecture of the movement.

If skeleton and openworked watches thrive on clarity, the open heart watch teases and hints at its secrets. It reveals a whisper of its inner workings, letting you in on only a small but vital clue to its mechanical nature.

Tastefully cut out, the aperture doesn’t detract from the attractiveness of the dial and it retains the legibility that might have been lost if the open heart watch were made openworked. The open heart watch enriches the repertoire of horological styles, unveiling another manner of presenting the movement.

Iconic Open Heart Watches

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon Blue Lagoon Fumé

The Open Heart Watch: A Window to Mechanical Artistry - Cortina Watch Malaysia

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon Blue Lagoon Fumé redefines high watchmaking minimalism. (Credit: H. Moser & Cie.)

Classic, robust and innovative, the Pioneer Tourbillon Blue Lagoon Fumé is H. Moser & Cie.’s answer to the everyday high-watchmaking all-rounder for any occasion. The watch features several of H. Moser & Cie.’s hallmarks in materialism, horology and finishing. A minimalist watch in essence, the lower half of the dial is carved out for the emblematic tourbillon, providing collectors a front-row seat to admire one of the most mesmerising creations in haute horlogerie. Not any tourbillon, this particular flying tourbillon features the innovative and patented double hairspring to guarantee the highest level of precision and completes a full rotation every 60 seconds.

Equally stunning is the “smoked” dial exhibiting a gradient effect with the romantically named shade blue lagoon transitioning from obsidian to turquoise, expertly playing with light, in concert with the gleaming red gold indices. The 42.8mm red gold case imparts luxury and durability. Its caseback permits a thorough view of the cutting-edge HMC 804 automatic movement, endowed with 72 hours of power reserve and a bevy of decorative finishing techniques, exemplifying H. Moser & Cie.’s watchmaking excellence.

Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual

Chopard shows that open heart works on high watchmaking too with the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual. (Credit: Chopard)

Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual

An encapsulation of Chopard’s watchmaking precepts and excellence, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual marks a new milestone at the Chopard Manufacture. One of the finest watches ever crafted by the Maison, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual features the L.U.C Calibre 96.36-L haute horlogerie movement, materialised in-house and pairing a flying tourbillon with a perpetual calendar and a large date display. Innovation abound in this self-winding movement with the two stacked barrels delivering 65 hours of power reserve. Not only is the movement chronometer certified, its ethereal finishing has also earned it the vaunted Poinçon de Genève recognition. Proof that refinement is married with precision and beauty.

The originality of the watch is elevated with Chopard’s steadfast belief in sustainability and ethics. The slender 40.5mm case is crafted in ethical 18-carat yellow gold. Its elegance is palpable with the gold dial base treated exclusively with PVD to realise the alluring green sheen, further decorated with a hand-crafted sunburst guilloché finish. Thanks to the ingenious interchangeable strap system, the watch can take on a variety of styles to suit any mood.

Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon

Avant-garde and open heart as elucidated by the Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon. (Credit: Franck Muller)

Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon

A unique interpretation of the open heart concept, the Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon is inspired by futurism and exudes audacity with contrasting materials. At once elegant and assertive, the watch positions its pièce de résistance – the spectacular tourbillon – as its centrepiece, supported with a guilloché dial and large numerals to project avant-garde. Flanking the tourbillon are a pair of hour and minute hands, innovatively orbiting the central tourbillon cage.

A masterpiece in modern watchmaking, the watch is the culmination of exhaustive research and development lasting well over a year. It features a 60-second tourbillon suspended on a single bridge, aptly shaped to double as the seconds indicator. The watch is powered by a self-winding movement with four days of power reserve, meticulously finished to exact standards expected of Franck Muller. Made of precious metals, the sensual Curved CX case highlights Franck Muller’s watchmaking and design prowess, inviting attention and curiosity. The Grand Central Tourbillon is more than a watch, it is a statement.

The Art of the Visible Movement

Thanks to its distinctive aesthetic, the allure of the open heart watch is unmatched in the universe of horology. The balanced approach to crafting the dial and the movement as showcased by the open heart watch, creates a window of appreciation for collectors to have the best of both worlds. One can admire the exquisiteness of its dial and the complexity of its movement simultaneously.

A leading luxury watch retailer in Asia, Cortina Watch boasts an expansive collection of open heart watches in an array of styles and sizes catering to every discerning collector. We invite you to explore the world of exclusive open heart watches with us. Make an appointment with us as we accompany you on a journey of mechanical watch appreciation and discover an open heart watch that truly speaks to you.

Discover more brands with Cortina Watch online, visit us at our boutiques, or contact a sales representative today to learn more.