Bvlgari, TAG Heuer & Zenith: Three Visions of Modern Watchmaking at LVMH Watch Week 2026

From design-led creativity to technical precision and performance mastery, the recent LVMH Watch Week 2026 saw these three storied manufactures take sharply different paths in contemporary horology.

Held from 19 to 21 January 2026, the seventh edition of LVMH Watch Week saw Milan emerge as the epicentre of contemporary horology. Set against Italy’s cultural capital, the annual gathering brought together nine watchmaking maisons from the group – Bvlgari, Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta, Hublot, L’Epée 1839, Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, Tiffany & Co. and Zenith – to unveil their latest novelties to an international audience of journalists, retailers and collectors.

Beyond the slew of new creations, LVMH Watch Week 2026 reaffirmed its role as an early-year compass for fine watchmaking. Across three days, the event showcased the breadth of the group’s savoir-faire, innovation and creativity. Spanning high jewellery watchmaking, sculptural clocks, technical sports watches and high complications, what emerged was a clear sense of creative momentum defined not by uniformity, but by diversity and complementarity across the maisons.

Within this broader constellation, Bvlgari, TAG Heuer and Zenith stood out as three distinct yet harmonious expressions of contemporary mechanical watchmaking. Each maison approached the idea of “the modern watch” from a different perspective: Bvlgari through design-led craftsmanship rooted in Roman heritage, Zenith through precision and technical architecture, and TAG Heuer through performance-driven chronograph expertise.

Together, their 2026 launches revealed a defining theme of this year’s LVMH Watch Week: modern horology is no longer governed by a single aesthetic or philosophy. It can be expressive or restrained, heritage-driven or resolutely contemporary, emotionally charged or technically obsessive. Here, we take a closer look at the watches themselves.

Bvlgari

The maison’s two latest offerings reaffirm its unique position in high watchmaking – one rooted in Roman architecture and unmistakable Italian flair and audacity, rather than traditional Swiss codes. Here, technical mastery is embedded within sculptural elegance. Ultra-thin movements, precious materials and high jewellery-level finishing underscore Bvlgari’s belief that modern horology should be visually assertive, sensorial and contemporary. The result: watchmaking that appeals as much to design connoisseurs as it does seasoned collectors.

Maglia Milanese Monete Secret Watch: Where Ancient Rome Meets Renaissance Craft

Bvlgari bridges centuries of craftsmanship with the Maglia Milanese Monete Secret Watch unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2026. The timepiece marks a first for the Roman jeweller: the incorporation of traditional Milanese mesh into a watch design.

The showpiece reimagines Bvlgari’s signature Monete collection, which debuted in the mid-1960s as a celebration of ancient coinage. At its heart sits an authentic Roman coin from 198-297AD bearing the portrait of Emperor Caracalla, which is framed by an octagonal rose gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

What sets this piece apart is its eye-catching bracelet. A technique developed by Milanese goldsmiths during the Renaissance, the intricate mesh flaunts a fluid, supple band of interlaced rose gold threads that drapes across the wrist with remarkable flexibility.

Beneath the white mother-of-pearl dial beats the Piccolissimo BVP100, the world’s smallest round calibre. Measuring just 13.5mm wide and 2.5mm thin, the 102-component movement is now offered with crown winding and a sapphire caseback. The secret watch mechanism allows the coin cover to open and reveal the dial beneath. Available in two bracelet sizes, this stunning timepiece represents Bvlgari’s dual identity as a Roman goldsmith and Swiss watchmaker.

Tubogas Manchette: A Kaleidoscope of 1970s Glamour

Bvlgari is reviving the bold spirit of the 1970s with its new Tubogas Manchette, a striking cuff watch that transforms nearly 12 carats of diamonds into a canvas of vibrant gemstones. Capturing the house’s distinctive joie de vivre, the exuberant piece draws direct inspiration from a 1974 archival model.

The Tubogas technique was first introduced by Bvlgari in the early 1940s in serpentine designs, but it was the 1970s that cemented the style as a house signature. This latest interpretation features the iconic wide single-coil bracelet in diamond-set yellow gold festooned with citrines, rubellites, peridots, amethysts, topazes and spessartites in a riot of colours.

The construction involves a refined new technique: each gold ring is individually moulded and polished before it’s assembled onto a flexible titanium blade. This modular approach allows the watch’s dazzling diamond sunburst motif to flow seamlessly across the bracelet, while maintaining the supple flexibility that defines Tubogas. Topping it off is a 16mm yellow gold case with a pavé diamond dial.

Driving the watch is Bvlgari’s Lady Solotempo BVS100, an in-house automatic movement measuring only 19mm in diameter and 3.9mm slim. Despite its compact size, the movement delivers a robust 50-hour power reserve and features a decorated oscillating mass visible via the transparent caseback.

TAG Heuer

It looks like the chronograph remains TAG Heuer’s defining territory in 2026. From the evolution of the Carrera glassbox chronographs to the technically ambitious Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, the Swiss watchmaker reinforces its status as a “Master of Chronograph”.

Its racing heritage is expressed through clarity, balance and ergonomic refinement rather than overt retro styling. The unmistakable glassbox architecture enhances depth and legibility, while advanced in-house movements and high-complication rattrapante engineering demonstrate TAG Heuer’s technical range from accessible luxury to avant-garde horology. These exciting launches are designed for enthusiasts who demand mechanical engagement, performance and emotional connection all at once.

Carrera Seafarer: Tides of History

TAG Heuer reaches back 77 years into its archives with the new Carrera Seafarer, resurrecting a tide-indicating complication that first appeared on the 1949 TAG Heuer Solunar. The original tide indicator was conceived by Walter Haynes, then-president of Abercrombie & Fitch, who commissioned the Swiss manufacture to develop his concept. A young Jack Heuer – great-grandson of founder Edouard Heuer and the visionary behind the Carrera and Monaco collections – even contributed to the project, consulting with his school physics teacher to refine the gear ratios for improved accuracy. The watch was subsequently sold through Abercrombie & Fitch’s New York store to sailors and outdoor enthusiasts.

The latest Seafarer houses this historic complication within TAG Heuer’s signature glassbox design. At 9 o’clock, a colourful disc, divided into quadrants, displays high and low tide times, and completes one full rotation every 29.53 days. A dedicated pusher marked “TIDE” allows easy adjustment once local tide times are known.

Its 42mm stainless steel case frames a champagne opaline dial accented with Intrepid Teal, a hue named after the 1967 America’s Cup-winning yacht that inspired Jack Heuer’s original Skipper regatta chronograph. Yellow gold-plated faceted indexes and hands add a luxurious contrast to the sporty watch aesthetic, while teal blue Super-LumiNova ensures legibility in low-light conditions. The watch comes fitted with the brand’s hallmark seven-row beads of rice bracelet and an additional strap evoking traditional boat rigging.

Powering the watch is the all-new in-house calibre TH20-04, developed specifically to incorporate the tide function alongside the chronograph. The movement, which is visible through an exhibition caseback, delivers an 80-hour power reserve and features a vertical clutch and column wheel for smooth pusher operation.

Carrera Chronograph: Racing Heritage in a New Dimension

The Swiss manufacture expands its celebrated glassbox Carrera family with a new 41mm chronograph that sits alongside the heritage-inspired 39mm model. The latest size brings fresh presence to a design language first revived in 2023 for the Carrera’s 60th anniversary.

The collection’s origins trace back to 1963, when Jack Heuer created the first Carrera for motorsport timing. Named after the legendary Carrera Panamericana road race, the watch was designed with legibility and balance at its core – principles that continue to define the line six decades later.

The chronograph retains the glassbox’s defining features: a sculptural domed sapphire crystal that curves seamlessly over a three-dimensional dial flange, capturing light from every angle. The clean, date-free dial displays monochromatic azuré counters that create depth, while maintaining clarity.

The new size boasts three references. The signature blue dial offers elegance through its circular-brushed surface and tone-on-tone counters. A captivating teal green edition introduces what TAG Heuer describes as a new signature colour for the brand, its rich hue shifting with light and movement. And for those seeking racing-inspired character, a black dial with red accents channels the energy of the track through contrasting chronograph hands and a coloured outer ring.

All three models are engraved with the Victory Wreath, a subtle emblem introduced within the TAG Heuer Carrera collection as a tribute to achievement and perseverance. Discreetly inscribed on the right-hand lug, it connects the owner to TAG Heuer’s motorsport legacy and the enduring pursuit of excellence. Seen through an open caseback, the timepiece is equipped with the in-house calibre TH20-01, featuring a vertical clutch and column wheel for smooth chronograph operation and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Each watch is paired with TAG Heuer’s seven-row steel bracelet, a refined reinterpretation of the heritage beads of rice design.

Zenith

The Swiss manufacture’s latest novelties reinforce its long-standing reputation as a chronometric authority, placing mechanical performance at the core of its storytelling. High-frequency movements, refined El Primero executions and clarity-driven design underscore Zenith’s belief that innovation should be measurable and purposeful.

This year also sees Zenith refine its historic codes through contemporary materials, improved ergonomics and sharper visual execution. Heritage is not frozen in time, but actively re-engineered to ensure that technical excellence remains relevant to today’s collectors who value substance and legacy.

DEFY Skyline Skeleton: Urban Contrasts in Black and Gold

The Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton expresses the brand’s precision-driven watchmaking through a contemporary, architectural lens, where structure and mechanics take centre stage. Executed in black ceramic and contrasted by a gold-toned openworked movement, the watch presents a striking study of light, depth and geometry inspired by the modern city.

The 41mm case features the sharp, angular lines that define the DEFY Skyline family, from its dodecagonal bezel to its faceted surfaces. Instead of a traditional dial, the skeletonised construction reveals the El Primero 3620 SK calibre in full view. Shaped around Zenith’s emblematic four-pointed star, the openworked architecture allows light to pass freely through the movement, creating a dynamic interplay of shadow and reflection reminiscent of an urban skyline. The warm gold tone of the movement contrasts sharply against the black ceramic exterior, highlighting the technical complexity and structural design of the watch.

Operating at a high frequency of 5 Hz, the El Primero 3620 SK features a constant 1/10th of a second running indicator at 6 o’clock. Completing one full rotation every 10 seconds, this display is directly driven by the escapement, offering a continuous, kinetic expression of precision rather than a conventional chronograph function. An integrated black ceramic bracelet extends the case’s geometry, while an additional rubber strap can be swapped in easily via Zenith’s quick strap-change system.

DEFY Revival A3643: A 1969 Icon Returns

ZENITH continues to explore the DEFY heritage with the Revival A3643, faithfully reinterpreting a pivotal 1969 design distinguished by its refined silver-toned dial. Following the successful reissues of the A3642 in 2022 and the ruby-dialled A3691 in 2023, this latest iteratiom honours the year ZENITH transformed modern watchmaking with the ground-breaking El Primero calibre and the architecturally bold DEFY line.

Nicknamed the “bank vault” or “bolt,” the original DEFY expressed a revolutionary design vocabulary through sharp geometry and structural presence. The 37mm stainless steel case employs re-engineered construction from recent Revival editions, while the meticulously recreated dial – scanned with high precision from a vintage model – showcases sophisticated two-tier applied markers with satin-brushed surfaces elevated above glossy black-lacquered recesses. Luminescent blocks and faceted hands ensure readability, complemented by an orange-accented seconds hand for added dynamism.

Unlike the 1969 solid caseback, a sapphire crystal display reveals the automatic Elite 670 manufacture movement with a 50-hour power reserve and features an openworked ZENITH star rotor. The timepiece pairs perfectly with the iconic ladder bracelet originally designed exclusively for ZENITH by renowned bracelet specialist Gay Frères in 1969, completing this authentic tribute to a defining moment in horological history.