A New Era of Watchmaking: Breakthroughs and Bold Statements from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025

The Italian house reasserts its dominance in the world of ultra-thin watchmaking with the phenomenal Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon on its debut at Watches & Wonders 2025. Boasting an incredible slimness of only 1.85mm, this is the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch. It is also the 10th world record for the Octo Finissimo line, making it the most awarded watch collection of the 21st century.

At its heart beats the BVF 900 calibre, a hand-wound movement integrating a skeletonised flying tourbillon – a feat that perfectly balances aesthetic purity with unrivalled mechanical virtuosity. The movement is built directly into the tungsten carbide main plate, eliminating traditional distinctions between case and calibre, as well as maximising structural efficiency. Every element is painstakingly finished, from the sandblasted brass hour dial with DLC anthracite coating to the rhodium-plated tourbillon bridge and polished hands.

Visually, the watch is as spectacular as it is revolutionary. The 40mm case, lugs, and bracelet are crafted from microbead-frosted titanium, while two integrated stainless steel planar crowns – one at 8 o’clock for winding, and another at 3 o’clock for time-setting – sit almost flush against the case. Mirroring the watch’s ultra-thin silhouette are the bracelet and folding clasp, whose impossibly thin profiles measure only 1.5mm.

The Swiss luxury manufacture’s emblematic Alpine Eagle collection soars to new heights with the introduction of the refined 41 XP CS Platinum. For the first time, the ultra-thin 41 XP case is crafted in gleaming 950 platinum, a precious metal revered not only for its rarity, but also for its durability and luminous sheen. This noble alloy also serves as the foundation for a subtly reimagined integrated bracelet, which now flaunts reshaped links and polished chamfers that enhance comfort and visual sophistication.

Anchoring the watch’s allure is an arresting dial, poetically named Shades of Ice. Inspired by the raw beauty of Alpine glaciers, it transitions effortlessly from a pale blue at the centre to an intense azure at the edges. The collection’s now-iconic eagle’s iris texture is stamped onto brass to create a shifting tapestry of light and shadow that’s reminiscent of sunlit glaciers at dawn.

The dashing 41mm timepiece features a central seconds display (as denoted by “CS” in its name) and is powered by the ultra-thin L.U.C 96.42-L calibre with a platinum micro-rotor and 65-hour power reserve. This COSC-certified chronometer also bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève, underscoring its mechanical and decorative excellence. Water resistant to 100 metres and available exclusively at Chopard boutiques in limited numbers, this is a sports watch that channels technical mastery through a lens of natural elegance.

The independent Schaffhausen-based watchmaker shakes things up by taking a bold technicolour turn with its Pop Collection. A striking departure from Moser’s signature minimalist monochromatic fumé dials, the fun series of limited editions draws inspiration from the expressive freedom of modern art. Each playfully vibrant dial features unexpected yet harmonious pairings of ornamental gemstones in three striking colourways: Burmese jade with pink opal, lapis lazuli with lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise with coral.

Beyond their striking hues, each stone carries its own emotional resonance: jade embodies wisdom and harmony; turquoise symbolises protection and energy; pink opal represents love and gentleness; coral evokes passion and vitality; lapis lazuli inspires creativity and intuition; and lemon chrysoprase promotes self-confidence. Every dial is left pure with no logo or indices – another Moser hallmark – allowing the gemstones to do all the storytelling and transforming each timepiece into a personal talisman.

Inside, Moser’s technical mastery shines. Driven by the HMC 202 calibre, the Endeavour Small Seconds Concept Pop features a 38mm steel case and is limited to 28 pieces per stone pairing. Next, with only eight pieces per colour combination, the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Pop is housed in a 40mm steel case, and equipped with the HMC 805 calibre and a one-minute flying tourbillon.