Momentum and Mastery: Six Novelties from Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 That Made a Lasting Impression

The German manufacture enriches its adventure-driven 1858 Geosphere collection with the 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition, a sophisticated tribute to legendary mountaineer and brand ambassador Reinhold Messner’s historic ascent of Mount Vinson in 1986.

Limited to just 986 pieces – a nod to the year Messner conquered the highest peak in Antarctica – the 43.5mm titanium timepiece embodies Montblanc‘s adventurous spirit and pioneering craftsmanship. The watch immediately stands out with its innovative blue-green composite middle case. Made from a combination of quartz fibres, aluminised basalt fibres, calcium carbonate composite, and light blue resin, it’s evocative of ancient Antarctic glacial ice. To emphasise exploration, the case incorporates a luminous silhouette of Mount Vinson that glows white by day and luminous blue at night. It’s deliberately placed on the left side of the case so only the wearer can see it.

The icy theme extends to the dial through an intricate sfumato glacier pattern in shades of blue-green and grey, achieved through a meticulous gratté-boisé technique requiring over 30 steps and taking four times longer to complete than a standard dial. Adding to its high-altitude credentials is Montblanc’s innovative Zero Oxygen Technology, which eliminates fogging and prevents oxidation to ensure the longevity of the watch and its precision in the most extreme conditions.

The Swiss manufacture resurrects one of its most iconic collections with the launch of the new Formula 1 Solargraph – a bold, high-performance tribute to the 1980s classic, now reimagined for a new generation. Launched in 1986, the first Formula 1 collection not only marked the debut of a racing-inspired timepiece never before seen in the Swiss watchmaking world, but also the official birth of TAG Heuer after the Techniques d’Avant Garde group acquired the historic Heuer name. The original line – youthful, colourful, and revolutionary – defined a decade with its avant-garde design, accessible luxury, and spirit of speed. For many, it was their first Swiss watch, a symbol of innovation and individuality.

That same energy surges through nine electrifying new references in 2025. The updated 38mm case – up from the original 35mm – is crafted in sandblasted steel, black DLC-treated steel, or TH-Polylight, a cutting-edge material known for its durability and colour versatility. The watch features ergonomic upgrades for enhanced comfort and wearability, while recognisable signature details seen on its predecessor, like the distinctive décroché – an elegant, slightly curved case designed to fit a variety of wrist sizes – and shield-shaped markers return in elevated form. Super-LumiNova accents, applied indexes, and reworked hands add a crisp, modern vibe to the dial.

Celebrating 160 years of horological mastery, Zenith introduces the G.F.J., a timepiece that revives one of the most revered movements in watchmaking history: the Calibre 135. Precision has long defined Zenith’s horological legacy, with its movements earning an unmatched 2,333 chronometry prizes in observatory trials back in the day. Once the pinnacle of timekeeping prestige associated with acclaim and fame, these competitions prompted leading watchmakers to submit specially developed calibres to showcase their technical prowess. Among them, the Calibre 135 emerged as a legend. Developed in the 1950s to push the limits of chronometric performance, it dominated the field, winning 235 first-place awards and setting records at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954 – a record that remains unbeaten to this day.

More than seven decades later, this legendary movement is reborn for a new era – masterfully reimagined to meet modern expectations, while honouring its storied past. Named after Zenith’s founder Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the timepiece, the G.F.J. is a testament to the manufacture’s unyielding pursuit of precision and innovation. Rather than a faithful reproduction, this is a complete re-engineering that preserves the calibre’s historic architecture – most notably its offset centre wheel, which accommodates a large balance wheel for enhanced stability and timekeeping accuracy ¬– while introducing contemporary refinements.