The 5 Avant-Garde Collections of Independent Watchmaker FRANCK MULLER

Among contemporary watchmaking masters, many have made their name through technical prowess. However, brands that have not only achieved technical superiority in the watchmaking world, but also developed a truly distinct and unique aesthetic style, are relatively fewer in number. Among them, FRANCK MULLER is considered one of the most legendary master brands. In 1992, at just 34 years old, Franck Muller founded his eponymous brand, which rose to global prominence within just a few short years. The ascent of FRANCK MULLER was like a whirlwind, and as we know, the French word for whirlwind is the tourbillon we are all familiar with.

FRANCK MULLER has set numerous tourbillon records, including the world’s largest tourbillon, the world’s smallest tourbillon, and the world’s fastest tourbillon, among others. The Revolution 2 watch, introduced in 2003, ushered in the subsequent era of multi-axis tourbillons in the watchmaking industry. In 2009, the Aeternitas Mega 4 ultra-complicated timepiece assembled an impressive 36 complications, including a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, grande and petit sonnerie, triple calendar, equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, making it a true magnum opus of the watchmaking golden age.

FRANCK MULLER has mastered the art of blending complex functions with artistic craftsmanship, drawing inspiration from classical elements of the pocket watch era and transforming them into captivating neo-classical works through bold and innovative designs. The brand’s distinctive aesthetic is instantly recognizable, featuring elements such as the iconic tonneau-shaped case, dynamic Arabic numerals, and vibrant, expressive color palettes. With a fusion of romantic imagination and playfulness, even complete horological novices are drawn to FRANCK MULLER’s unique allure.

 

Curvex CX

Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton

The star always takes center stage, commanding the spotlight and attention of the entire audience. The FRANCK MULLER Grand Central Tourbillon wristwatch is the watchmaking industry’s first tonneau-shaped timepiece featuring a central tourbillon. With the luxurious and prestigious tonneau case serving as the stage, the one-minute rotating tourbillon takes the lead role. When the wearer raises their wrist, all spotlights seem to converge on the tourbillon, presenting the purest and most beautiful mechanical ballet.

Central tourbillons are exceptionally rare in the watchmaking world, primarily due to the inherent spatial challenges they pose compared to traditional movement layouts. The gear train, as the name suggests, is akin to a train, with the mainspring acting as the locomotive and the balance wheel at the caboose. To ensure balanced component distribution, the entire gear train is typically arranged in a circle, thus positioning the tourbillon at the 6 o’clock or 12 o’clock position in most movements. To place the tourbillon at the center of the Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton, the entire gear train had to be redesigned, including a unique time display method unlike conventional wristwatches.

However, the visual impact of a central tourbillon is undeniable, not only maximizing the display of its mesmerizing rotational motion but also creating ample space around it to showcase engraving, oversized Arabic numerals, or skeletonized craftsmanship. The Grand Central Tourbillon Skeleton is powered by FRANCK MULLER’s in-house automatic movement, boasting an impressive four-day power reserve and technical specifications that stand tall among the finest in the industry. Needless to say, wearing this timepiece is sure to elicit gasps of awe from all who witness it.

 

Cintrée Curvex

The Double Retrograde Hour

For FRANCK MULLER, time is never a rigid, unchanging concept; it’s an opportunity to break free from tradition and explore new surprises and delights. The Crazy Hours, with its unconventional and random time display, is a renowned classic exemplifying this philosophy. The Double Retrograde Hour takes this creative spirit a step further, featuring a dual retrograde display that shatters conventional retrograde paradigms.

Traditional retrograde displays typically adopt a single arc layout, advancing clockwise until reaching the end, then jumping back to the starting point. In contrast, the FRANCK MULLER Double Retrograde Hour employs two semi-circular retrograde.

sub-dials: the left semi-circle displays the daytime hours from 6 AM to 6 PM, while the right semi-circle displays the nighttime hours from 6 PM to 6 AM the following day. Two hour hands alternate shifts, one for day and one for night. At 6 AM or 6 PM each day, one hand jumps back to its starting position to rest, while the other hand resumes its journey, representing the cyclical transition between day and night. This unique display offers a fresh perspective on the passage of time, prompting us to ponder its significance anew.

 

Vanguard

Lady Slim Skeleton

When it comes to tonneau-shaped cases, FRANCK MULLER is undoubtedly one of the first brands that comes to mind. Introduced in 1992, the Cintrée Curvex established itself as the epitome of the tonneau wristwatch. In 2014, the Vanguard line debuted with a sleeker, more contemporary aesthetic, becoming the new tonneau icon. While the Vanguard men’s watches exude dynamic flair, the ladies’ models seamlessly blend artistic craftsmanship with elegant refinement. Though tonneau cases traditionally convey a substantial presence, the Vanguard Lady Slim Skeleton maintains a svelte 9.1mm thickness, perfectly hugging the feminine wrist. Powered by an in-house movement with a 38-hour power reserve, this timepiece delivers exceptional precision and wearing comfort within its compact dimensions.

Skeletonization is another FRANCK MULLER forte, with the front-to-back open-worked movement allowing full appreciation of the mechanical artistry. Every component and skeletonized aspect is meticulously finished to gem-like perfection, radiating brilliance. The vibrant Arabic numerals are also expertly skeletonized, appearing to float magically above the movement. The tonneau case is lavishly set with sparkling diamonds, adding an aura of dreamlike luxury.

 

Round

Rainbow Skeleton

Even before the recent rainbow watch trend emerged, FRANCK MULLER had already established itself as the horological world’s most vibrant artist, adept at splashing vivid colors onto its creations. Whether through the use of multicolored numeral hour markers in the Colour Dreams line, gemstone-set Rainbow watches, or the colorful movements of the Vanguard Skeleton, FRANCK MULLER‘s vibrant hues leave a mesmerizing impression. The allure of rainbow watches lies not only in the rich spectrum of colors but also in the meticulous selection and pairing of gemstones with the perfect hues and luster. Each gemstone is sourced from different corners of the world and carefully set in a graduated arrangement around the bezel, creating a delightful spectrum of seven colors.

Complementing the colorful gemstone bezel is the exquisitely skeletonized movement of the Rainbow Skeleton, where the movement bridges are carefully hollowed out, leaving only the essential structure to maintain integrity. This aesthetic of walking a tightrope maximizes visual transparency, allowing the intricate movement to shine as brilliantly as the gemstones themselves. The open-worked design reveals the dynamic motion of the mainspring and gears during winding. Featuring a dual mainspring barrel offering an exceptional 7-day power reserve, a rarity in the realm of gem-set watches.

 

Long Island

Introduced in 2000, the Long Island collection, with its rectangular case featuring gentle curved lines, enriched the FRANCK MULLER product lineup. This year, FRANCK MULLER unveils the all-new Long Island Evolution trilogy, showcasing three novel and distinct time displays that embody the brand’s unique charm and complex horological prowess. All three Long Island models are powered by FRANCK MULLER’s proprietary rectangular in-house movements. The inner cases feature an anodized pine green aluminum finish, while the titanium outer cases are treated with a black PVD coating and satin brushing, complemented by matte black alligator straps with pine green stitching – a rich, contemporary color scheme that immediately catches the eye.

Evolution Master Jumper

First, the Long Island Evolution Master Jumper boasts a triple jumping display, providing digital windows for the hour (Jumping Hour), minute (Jumping Minute), and date (Jumping Date). Adopting an instantaneous jumping mechanism, the numerals transition instantly with each passing minute, hour, and day, without any hesitation or delay. The added challenge lies in the vertically aligned display of these three windows in a straight line, a seamless fusion of complex function and aesthetic design, representing the pinnacle of watchmaking artistry.

Evolution Giga Tourbillon

The Giga Tourbillon, with its 20mm tourbillon carriage diameter, once held the record for the world’s largest tourbillon. This year, the Long Island Evolution would not miss out on this signature FRANCK MULLER complication. However, fitting the originally tonneau-shaped movement into the rectangular Long Island case required considerable effort from FRANCK MULLER. The massive tourbillon, occupying over half the movement’s volume, adopts a flying tourbillon design without an upper bridge. The upper half of the movement also incorporates two mainspring barrels, providing a four-day power reserve. This is an exceptionally rare rectangular tourbillon wristwatch in the industry.

Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve

The Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve is equipped with FRANCK MULLER’s in-house FM 1745 hand-wound movement, boasting an impressive seven-day power reserve. Beyond its extended autonomy when fully wound, the skeletonized dial offers a window into the movement, revealing the balance wheel, mainspring barrels, and other intricate mechanical components. The mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock and the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock form a perfectly symmetrical layout. The three-dimensional Arabic numerals are filled with superluminova, emitting a clear and high-contrast mysterious glow in low-light conditions.

 

Get up close with the dynamic and thrilling Franck Muller VANGUARD BEACH at Cortina Watch today or discover more online.