Patek Philippe introduces three new versions of its most iconic chronographs with added complications, from the Ref. 5204R-011 to the Ref. 5930P-001.
Patek Philippe’s multi-complication chronographs have gotten a new update this year, to the delight of many collectors. The new variations demonstrate how the company stays relevant to new customers by staying on top of design trends, from integrated bracelets to coloured dials.
The three models include the Grand Complications Split-Seconds Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R- 011, the Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar Ref. 5905/1A-001 and the Self-winding World Time Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5930P-001.
The Ref. 5905, Now in Steel
It’s been 25 years since Patek Philippe first developed an annual calendar model in the Ref. 5035J and 15 years since the first Annual Calendar Chronograph, the Ref. 5960P. The design of the Annual Calendar Chronograph has since coalesced into the Ref. 5905, with a beautifully nuanced and balanced display featuring three apertures at the top of the dial for the day, date and month. A single 60-minute totaliser rests on the lower half of the display with a day/night indicator.
Now, the watch has been released in steel, with an integrated three-link bracelet. This debut will definitely make the watch one of the most desirable models of the brand for years to come. The curved lugs of the case fuses seamlessly with the bracelet to deliver a sporty and elegant design, with a patented fold-over clasp.
Add to that an olive green sunburst dial with gold applied hour markers, and it makes the watch an indisputable beauty. The annual calendar is a practical complication for every day, and designing it as a sporty steel watch makes it a wearable model for any occasion. We definitely suggest submitting your request for this model early.
For rose gold fans, don’t worry, the Ref. 5905R-001 is still in production and available for order. With a brown sunburst dial and polished gold case, rounded pushers and a shiny black alligator leather strap, it’s a classic that you can enjoy all year round.
The Ref. 5204R in slate grey
There are few chronograph timepieces that watch collectors lust after as much as this masterpiece. Since its launch in 2012, one platinum and two rose-gold models have appeared, the first with a silver opaline dial and the second in an opaline ebony black dial with the “goutte” bracelet.
This new dial variation to the Ref. 5204R in slate grey is faithful to its predecessors, from the subtle chronograph track “chin” to the hour markers coated with luminous paint. The slate grey sunburst display gives the watch a fresh, modern look, especially with the midnight blue moonphase display under the date counter.
The perpetual calendar’s day and month apertures above the logo and the day/night and leap year displays are on white discs for legibility. The entire watch is powered by the manual-winding CHR 29-535 PS Q, with the small seconds display at 9 o’clock and the 30-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock. The rattrapante pusher rests on the crown, and the correctors for the watch are placed carefully to avoid accidental triggers. This is a beautiful edition of the Ref. 5204R that will still look fresh-faced in 50 years.
The new dial joins the Ref. 5204/1R-001 that is still in production. A watch that’s dripping with style, the Ref. 5204/1R-001 with 5-link bracelet in full rose gold is probably the most prized model among Patek Philippe’s chronograph collectors. The goutte or teardrop bracelet, as it’s known, retains easy access to the integrated correctors, ensuring convenient date adjustment.
The CH 29-535 PS is a stunning movement that holds 6 patents designed specifically for Patek Philippe’s first in-house, manual-winding column wheel traditional chronograph with a horizontal clutch. These include: a new tooth profile for energy efficiency and reduced friction; a synchronised brake lever for chronograph start and stop performance; self-setting hammers to prevent misalignment on the chronograph minute and seconds hand during reset; and much more.
The variation of the CH 29-535 PS, the CHR 29-535 PS Q, features two specific innovations. Firstly, there’s an isolator design that is controlled by the split-seconds column wheel, moving back and forth reliably to couple or uncouple the split-seconds lever. Secondly, a modification of the split-seconds lever and heart cam helps to eliminate the “bounce” when the split-seconds hand jumps back to align with the chronograph seconds hand. Watch the magic of the movement from the transparent sapphire caseback, to truly appreciate the complexity of this design.
The Ref. 5930
Patek Philippe first introduced its World Time Chronograph in 2016 to great fanfare, with a white gold case and blue engine-turned dial. Engine-turning is a rare handcraft that’s practiced in-house by the brand, bringing out the beauty of the dial’s texture. Accompanied by the world time ring with a pusher at 10 o’clock to indicate a second time zone easily, this was a unique model, with bevelled lugs and bezel that emphasised the angularity of the watch.
Now, it has emerged in a platinum case with a guilloché dial in green, with a matching city ring and alligator leather strap. The self-winding watch is powered by the CH 28-520 HU in-house chronograph with world time module, controlled by a column wheel and vertical clutch. The 30-minute totaliser sits at the bottom of the guilloché dial discreetly.
You may recall that the Ref. 5930G-010 World Time Chronograph in white gold has a blue city ring unlike the white on the new model. While the all-blue dial unifies the watch display, merging the guilloché dial fluidly with the world time ring, the new edition plays up the focus on the engine-turning, giving the same watch two very distinct looks.
The three models bring forth a new generation of Patek Philippe’s designs and styles that will definitely ignite collectors’ interest. These models are now available at Cortina Watch. For more information, contact one of our sales representatives.